Michelin Star Korean Fine Dining with a View: Bicena at Lotte Signiel Hotel, Seoul

Located on the 81st floor of the iconic Lotte World Tower, Bicena offers a modern take on Korean cuisine with breathtaking panoramic views of Seoul. As a Michelin-starred restaurant within the luxurious Signiel Hotel, Bicena promises an exceptional dining experience. To be honest, I had heard mixed reviews about Bicena, which initially made me hesitant to visit. However, my recent lunch experience pleasantly surprised me, exceeding my expectations in both atmosphere and taste.

Elevated Ambiance and Location

Lotte World Tower itself is a landmark, resembling a giant corn stalk reaching for the sky. Home to the upscale Signiel Residences and Signiel Hotel, and even the Seoul Sky Observatory, the tower is a destination in itself. Bicena shares the 81st floor with another Michelin-starred restaurant, Stay. Reaching the 81st floor is an experience, with high-speed elevators whisking you up in what feels like no time. The restaurant boasts incredibly high ceilings and a sophisticated interior, creating a truly luxurious and spacious feel. Whether you choose a table in the main hall or opt for a private room, the ambiance is undeniably impressive. From the 81st floor, the views of Seoul are stunning – residential buildings look like tiny matchboxes, and even the Seokchon Lake is visible below. While height isn’t everything, the elevated perspective definitely adds to the special occasion feel of dining at Bicena.

A Taste of Modern Korean Cuisine: Dish by Dish

Bicena offers a set menu, and for lunch, I opted for the ‘Sancheon Course.’ A unique touch is the option to personalize the menu with a custom message, perfect for celebrations. For an additional cost, I also added the Chicken and Mushroom Stone Pot Rice and the Fresh Abalone Dumplings, a signature dish.

Welcome Drink: Pomegranate Sikhye

The meal began with a refreshing Pomegranate Sikhye, a Korean sweet rice drink with a pomegranate twist. The subtle tartness of pomegranate balanced the sweetness of the Sikhye, and the addition of brown and black rice at the bottom added texture. While enjoyable as a welcome drink, I felt it might be even better suited as a palate cleanser later in the meal.

잣 옹심이 (Pine Nut Ongsimi)

Next was the Pine Nut Ongsimi. Ongsimi, made with chestnut, was topped generously with pine nuts and served with a peanut and pine nut sauce. As a big fan of pine nuts, I particularly enjoyed the nutty and savory flavors. The sauce, enriched with peanut, was more robust than a pure pine nut sauce. While I’m not typically an Ongsimi enthusiast (I find the texture a bit starchy), the combination of the roasted pine nuts and the flavorful sauce was quite appealing.

어국수 (Seafood Noodles)

The Seafood Noodles, or Eoguksu, featured shrimp and cuttlefish in a clear anchovy broth, garnished with golden enoki mushrooms. The broth was clean and flavorful, but the shrimp element of the “noodle” was unfortunately a bit lacking in texture, breaking apart easily and feeling somewhat bland. However, the cuttlefish pieces were excellent – perfectly cooked with a satisfying chewiness and subtle flavor. It was a dish of contrasts, with the cuttlefish saving the experience.

새우 강정 (Shrimp Gangjeong)

Shrimp Gangjeong consisted of shrimp balls coated in tiny dried shrimp and glazed with a red pepper paste sauce. The dish was garnished with peanut powder and spinach powder. The shrimp balls inside were delightfully tender, but the intensely flavored dried shrimp coating overpowered the delicate shrimp flavor within. While the intention may have been a crispy and flavorful exterior, the bold taste of the dried shrimp and the Gochujang sauce was quite strong. It is definitely rich and best enjoyed in moderation.

생복 만두 (Fresh Abalone Dumplings)

The highlight for many, and a signature dish, the Fresh Abalone Dumplings were a worthwhile addition. Thin slices of abalone replaced the traditional dumpling skin, encasing a filling of minced shiitake mushrooms, scallops, and beef. Topped with Gampa seaweed, the dumplings had a surprisingly intense flavor. Despite being called “fresh abalone,” the dumplings were cooked through and had a firm, slightly chewy texture, reminiscent of a high-end version of Korean squid sundae, but with abalone and premium ingredients. For those who enjoy squid sundae, this is a must-try.

오리불고기 (Duck Bulgogi)

For the main course, the Duck Bulgogi was exceptional. Using duck breast with a generous layer of fat, the duck was expertly grilled, resulting in crispy skin and incredibly tender, juicy meat. The black sesame sauce underneath added a nutty depth. This dish was the standout of the meal, perfectly cooked and bursting with flavor. Compared to the sirloin steak upgrade, which seemed small in portion, the Duck Bulgogi is definitely the superior choice.

솥밥과 아욱토장국 & 닭고기 버섯 솥밥 (Stone Pot Rice and Auktogang Soup & Chicken and Mushroom Stone Pot Rice)

The meal included freshly milled rice cooked in a stone pot, served with Auktogang soup and various side dishes, including a delicious sweet and savory Hwangtae Gangjeong (dried pollack snack) and steamed egg with mushrooms. The rice was indeed flavorful, and knowing it was freshly milled added to the experience, even if subconsciously. The Chicken and Mushroom Stone Pot Rice, ordered for two, was a hearty addition, with a generous amount of tender chicken. While good, it’s not essential, but a solid and satisfying course to round out the meal.

율란 과자말이랑 곶감 수정과 (Yullan, Fruit and Persimmon Sujeonggwa)

Dessert was a delightful Yullan (chestnut ball) and Persimmon Sujeonggwa (cinnamon punch). The Yullan, a chestnut dumpling, had a crispy pastry shell and a slightly chewy interior. The Persimmon Sujeonggwa was visually stunning, served with pine nuts skewered on a pine needle. Inside the Sujeonggwa was a soft persimmon filling, creating a textural and flavorful surprise. It was a playful and enjoyable dessert, with the Sujeonggwa being particularly memorable.

Price and Value

Lunch at Bicena is priced at 70,000 KRW on weekdays and 77,000 KRW on weekends, which is reasonable for a hotel restaurant of this caliber and type. Private rooms are available with a minimum spend per person, but the main hall also offers a pleasant ambiance. Considering the quality of ingredients, the refined atmosphere, and the stunning views, Bicena offers a worthwhile fine dining experience, especially for special occasions.

Final Thoughts

Despite initial reservations, Bicena proved to be a surprisingly delightful experience. The atmosphere is undeniably luxurious, the service is attentive, and the food, while with some minor hits and misses, was overall very good, with the Duck Bulgogi being a standout. Dining on the 81st floor of Lotte Signiel Hotel is a unique experience in itself. For the price point, Bicena is definitely worth considering for a special meal in Seoul, and I would gladly revisit.

Restaurant Information:

• Restaurant Name: Bicena (비채나)
• Location: Lotte Signiel Hotel 81F, 300 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul, South Korea (서울시 송파구 올림픽로 300 롯데시그니엘호텔 81층)
• Rating: Michelin 1 Star
• Cuisine: Modern Korean Fine Dining
• Price: Lunch from ₩70,000 (Weekday)