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Discovering Hidden Gems: A Jonggak Culinary Adventure

If you’re feeling weary and the city feels too cold, I urge you to visit these places. A sip of warm soybean paste stew (doenjang jjigae) and a cold shot of soju and beer (somaek) might just melt away your troubles. And the sight of ‘Chamisul Soju, ₩3,000’ clearly written on the menu might bring a smile back to your face. Today’s journey starts from Jonggak Station and introduces easy-to-reach spots for a delicious culinary tour.

Seoul’s heart, Jonggak, is a place where time rushes by. Yet, hidden beneath the surface, a small world brimming with warmth exists at a slower pace. In this gray city of glass and steel, where the competition is fierce, these spaces offer a moment of respite. We are gratefully embraced.

Samgyeongwon: A Taste of Nostalgia

Samgyeongwon is nestled modestly in the basement of the LeMeilleur building. At first, I thought it was a traditional Korean medicine clinic! Upon entering, my appreciation for their Somaek was immediate – perfectly healthy and refreshingly cold. The weight in the name ‘Samgyeongwon’ resonates as heavily as the steel beams of the building. The charm and warmth of people from the vanishing alleyways of Seoul still breathe and live within the walls of Samgyeongwon.

Let’s pour a drink. Chamisul Soju for only ₩3,000! In the heart of downtown Seoul, Jongno, this price isn’t just a number; it’s a last stand against the disappearing warmth and affection. It is the last glass with the name of care.

My friend, who arrived earlier, was owed money. He simply ordered fresh tofu. At first, I laughed. With so many other dishes available, why order plain tofu? It was quickly replaced by a feeling of apology. The tofu, in its pure white complexion, was slowly revealed with a lasting aftertaste.

The Exquisite Tofu

The white and smooth tofu was like a blank canvas. The seasoning placed on top was a work of art. The soy sauce, chili powder, sesame seeds, sesame oil, finely chopped scallions, and chili peppers. A masterpiece with perfect balance. The seasoning, nestled on the tofu like autumn leaves, possessed a dazzling yet restrained beauty. It wasn’t just food; it was a miniature garden. The sauce plays the main character in disguise, and the tofu quietly supports the flavors with deep serenity. As you chew, the tofu crumbles softly in your mouth, and the seasoning seeps into the smooth texture. The vegetables add a satisfying crunch. Salty, savory, nutty, and refreshing flavors intertwine, creating a subtly warm sensation. The price of the Tofu plate is ₩10,000 and was incredibly tasty.

The Comfort of Gyeran Mari (Rolled Omelet)

The rolled omelet, also priced at ₩10,000, is hidden somewhere on the menu. Finding it evokes a feeling that can’t be described with mere excitement. As always, I quietly placed an order. The neatly stacked golden-yellow cross-sections resemble old memories carefully being unearthed. Like opening a dusty drawer of reminiscences, this rolled omelet touches the heart. It has a refined homemade quality, reminiscent of the warmth emanating from my mother’s kitchen in the morning. The fluffy egg embraces the mouth, and the hidden tenderness, rich savoriness, and slight textures of the vegetables deliver a short but profound story, like an old handwritten letter, accompanied by soju. Time, care, and heart are quietly layered in this rolled omelet.

Spicy Stir-fried Squid

The stir-fried squid, also ₩10,000, uses domestic squid. Sometimes, giant squid are used, but the taste is completely different. The chewy, bouncy texture is fundamental, and the savory flavor lingers on the tongue. With each bite and sip of soju, the laughter of the vanished alleyways of Seoul are revived. The harmony of squid, crisp vegetables, and fantastic seasonings are delightful. It’s an excellent side for soju, but it would also be great with rice. Since I was too full, I refrained to save space for soju.

The Soul-Soothing Doenjang Jjigae

The soybean paste stew, priced at ₩7,000, is a comforting bowl of Korean soul food that melts away the day’s fatigue. On this day, the doenjang jjigae, which I ordered without high expectations, steamed gently in a large earthenware pot. The broth was rich in color and deep in aroma, as if homemade soybean paste was used. Generous amounts of tofu were added, showcasing the textbook example of doenjang jjigae we all remember. But there was one unexpected element that made the stew extraordinary: squid! It was the first time I encountered this combination, but the strangeness quickly transformed into admiration as I took a sip. The savory flavor of squid permeated the rich aroma of soybean paste, and the unique chewy texture of the squid created ripples, a small wave. The unfamiliar combination found harmony in the mouth the more I chewed. With each spoonful of broth, the day’s weariness silently subsided, and each piece of squid was paired with a quietly refilled glass of soju. This spot is full of gold and time, not too much or too little, as if the moment stands still.

Years have settled in this space. Photos of poets hang on the wall. It’s unknown if Yun Dong-ju, Seo Jeong-ju, and Han Yong-un frequented these alleys, but this space evokes something that resonates with the human heart, just like their poetry. It’s a place that makes you want to linger for a long time. It exudes a comforting warmth.

The journey started from Jonggak Station, gently flowing with the breeze. Walking under the sunlight filtering through the city’s cracks, we suddenly shifted our rhythm.

Exploring other options

Our destination was set. As soon as we arrived at ‘Anju Village’, we were greeted by a long queue, so we gave up on it. With the attitude that if this isn’t the way, we can go another way, we went straight ahead and entered ‘Stairway House’. With each step up the stairs, a feeling quietly permeated my heart: maybe this is today’s true destination.

The basic side dish that came out as soon as we sat down was a bowl of mussel soup with large, tender mussels and thinly sliced carrots and onions, signaling the start of our session. Unfortunately, the ‘Hwang Gaaori’ dish was already sold out, so instead we ordered the Elephant Clam, which became an unexpected treasure. A long time ago, I vaguely remember having eaten it once, but I don’t remember the taste. So, this time was practically my first experience. As soon as I put a piece in my mouth, the flesh of the elephant clam had a crunchy texture. It was literally a moment where the word ‘texture’ came to life. The sweetness gradually swelled in my mouth, and the savory and nutty flavors that followed were like hidden emotions flooding in all at once. Only then did I realize that clams could express such a variety of emotions.

And the guts… honestly, I was scared. I thought it would be fishy. But after tasting it, all doubts disappeared. There was not a trace of fishiness, and the heavy, rich flavor enveloped my mouth. The smooth, spreading flavor was engraved not on the tip of my tongue, but in my heart. At that moment, I was certain that I would remember this taste for a long time. In other words, it was a silent shock that touched a corner of my heart. The taste that entered my mouth subtly touched my liver. The price was a bit concerning, at ₩59,000 for a plate of elephant clam. It was a hefty number. But the moment I put the Anju in my mouth, that concern became meaningless. If it tasted like this, I would gladly pay again. A taste that becomes more desperate because I don’t know if I can eat it again. An Anju like a person I don’t know if I’ll ever meet again.

I’ve been to this Stairway House several times and always ordered the Seafood Ramen, but I always think it’s not my taste. Then I order it again the next time I come. I personally think that Ramen tastes best when it’s cooked purely. A page of a day I want to walk again in one plate. In this way, we quietly left another unforgettable taste in our hearts.

Finishing Up with Pizza

This time, back to Jonggak Station! Located in this place where millions of footsteps pass every day is Didi’s Pizza Cup. Since I was already quite tipsy, I was desperate for something greasy, hot, and salty. My acquaintance and I like shortcuts. This is the shortcut to getting fat. There’s nothing like pizza for that. The crispy crust, the moist and savory cheese, and that familiar and rich aroma spreading throughout the mouth. Finding a pizza place in a slightly drunk state might be the most human (or piggish) choice.

The taste of the pizza itself isn’t amazing, but it’s also not disappointing. The satisfaction is calm, and the soju is relaxed. We ordered the Double Delicious Pizza, which seemed like their signature dish, featuring four flavors on one pie. We started with Highball. The sound of ice clinking, the rhythm of carbonation rising. The coolness of each sip mixes happily with the greasiness and savoriness of the pizza. Then, we ordered Guinness. The bitterness of the rich dark beer lingers on the tip of the tongue, and the soft foam is like wrapping a corner of my heart. It’s a good time to finish up.

Gwanghwamun House

Emerging from exit 8 of Gwanghwamun Station, a narrow gap that feels more like a vent in everyday life than an exit, you’ll find yourself stumbling down an alleyway. Like a secret place that an old friend has secretly told you about, you will see a sign that strangely catches your eye. The sign says ‘Gwanghwamun House’. Underneath, the scent of alcohol and time seeps out. You gingerly push open the creaking iron door, wondering if this is really the entrance. The inside is narrower and deeper than expected. Although the space is small, the aroma is layered like an old bookshelf, and stories flow behind the backs of silently seated drinkers.

“I’ve been here for 45 years.” The owner’s calm reply to my acquaintance’s question was a poem in itself. A tone that only someone who has guarded countless nights can have. Without pretense or explanation, just “45 years.” The moment I heard those words, an exclamation naturally burst out, and even the extra belly fat pressed down by my belt became reverent. Well, maybe the soju hit me before the emotion did. But what was certain was that from that moment on, we came to share something with this place.

The first drink in a new place is always awkward, but not here. The owner’s warm eyes and the seemingly indifferent words of care, the old glasses, and the temperature of the delicious Anju all felt so familiar that they were unfamiliar, and so familiar that they were unfamiliar. The marks of human hands are all over this space that has guarded this location for such a long time, and even the water towel that was casually handed to me had the words “You’ve worked hard today.” Maybe the real menu here isn’t alcohol but that hand. So, I poured soju with a grateful heart. The lovely sound of the first glass, a sound that echoes even in the falling drop, and the moment the drink seeps into my mouth, stories that I couldn’t tell in words slowly melt and flow. Words that wouldn’t come out if I tried to force them gently linger around my lips with a sip of alcohol, and I end up smiling without realizing it.

Kimchi Jjigae (Kimchi Stew)

The Kimchi Jjigae was boiling in a hot pot, and the broth that had been simmering over time was quietly settling inside. When I took a spoonful, the broth seemed to embrace all the wounds and memories of the kimchi and meat, not heavy or light, but settling on my tongue. The kimchi, which had been well ripened, had lost its sharpness and had transformed into a texture that blended well with the meat. Heavy and deep. Not too spicy, not too bland. This taste carries with it the memories of the times I’ve spent from my childhood dining table to where I am now.

It’s a familiar dish, and it’s a menu that’s often on the table, so I lived with the feeling that it wasn’t that great. It’s an Anju as precious as air. Along with soybean paste stew, it’s Korean soul food, and it goes well with soju. For someone, the Kimchi Jjigae here is the most delicious in the universe.

Rolled Omelet

The rolled omelet is literally warm. The neatly cut sections, with their yellow light, looked like they wouldn’t hurt anyone. I felt my mother’s care in each of the neatly cut sections. The fluffiness I felt the moment I put it in my mouth was like my mother’s arms from a long time ago, and just as the subtle savory flavor spread on my tongue, I even felt a sense of emotion. The smell that used to drift in from the kitchen into my room when I was a child.

The Kimchi Jjigae and rolled omelet are best friends. In order to enjoy them the best, you should always order them together. A spicy and refreshing Kimchi Jjigae broth, a fluffy and savory rolled omelet, and then a soju to finish it off, and you’ll be impressed.

Spicy Pork Stir-fry (Jaeyuk Bokkeum)

There were three of us guys, and I couldn’t help but order it because I saw the word ‘Jaeyuk Bokkeum’ on the menu. I immediately placed an order and continued to put soju into my esophagus. The meat and vegetables were properly stir-fried with red seasoning and sparkled on the plate. The slightly pleasant spiciness, salty savoriness, and the crunchiness of the vegetables that were subtly sandwiched between the meat and seasoning blended well. However, it’s a matter of taste. It wasn’t bad, but it felt a bit dry on my tongue. Personally, I prefer a juicy Jaeyuk with some fat. Like koalas, we lean on the table today and pour another glass. Not because the soju tastes good, but to remember that time, to remember that person, and to bring myself out again.

Gwanghwamun House is still there today. Quietly, silently, warmly.

Thank you for watching the long video.

Google Search Assessment: A Google search for restaurants near Jonggak Station, Seoul, reveals a wide variety of options ranging from traditional Korean cuisine to international flavors. The area is known for its bustling atmosphere and diverse dining scene, catering to both locals and tourists. The specific restaurants mentioned in the text would require separate searches to gauge reviews and current status. Google Maps can be used to pinpoint locations and assess their proximity to Jonggak Station. Based on the description, these restaurants are likely well-established and may have mixed reviews due to their age and popularity. The pricing mentioned (₩3,000 soju, ₩7,000 doenjang jjigae, ₩10,000 dishes) suggests these are relatively budget-friendly establishments which are harder to find in central Seoul these days, that are likely focused on providing authentic and traditional Korean flavors.