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Seoul Food Adventures: Euljiro’s Hongeo Samhap & Jeongneung’s Memilmuk

Hello food lovers! Today, we’re diving into two distinct culinary experiences in Seoul. First, we’ll venture to Jeongneung for handmade Memilmuk (buckwheat jelly), dumplings, and kalguksu (noodle soup). Then, we’ll head to Euljiro for a taste of Hongeo Samhap (fermented skate, pork belly, and kimchi) paired with homemade Nongju (cloudy rice wine). Get ready for a delightful journey through diverse Korean flavors!

Euljiro: Hongeo Heaven at Hongtak House

Finding the Hidden Gem

Our first stop is in Euljiro, specifically at Hongtak House, a restaurant specializing in Hongeo Samhap. To get there, take exit 6 of Euljiro 4-ga Station. Walk straight, then turn left, followed by a right and immediate left. Continue straight and turn left again – you’ve arrived!

Google Search Assessment:
Performing a Google search for “홍탁집 을지로” (Hongtak House Euljiro) shows numerous reviews and blog posts. The general consensus is that it’s a well-established, authentic restaurant known for its Hongeo Samhap and traditional atmosphere. Many reviewers praise the quality of the Hongeo and the homemade makgeolli. Some mention the strong smell of the fermented skate, which is expected for this dish, and may not be for everyone. The location is often described as being in a slightly older or more industrial part of Euljiro, adding to its charm.

From Google Maps reviews:

• Known for its unique Hongeo Samhap.
• Small, cozy space that may get crowded.
• Prices are reasonable.
• Be prepared for the distinct smell of fermented skate.

A Legacy of Flavor

Hongtak House has been serving customers for over 50 years! The current owner took over 25 years ago from her aunt, who ran it for the previous 25 years. This is a place steeped in tradition.

The restaurant is cozy and always buzzing with customers. The prices are quite reasonable, especially considering they offer domestic Hongeo (though not from Heuksando).

The Star: Hongeo Samhap

We ordered the Hongeo Samhap. It’s important to know that the pork belly is cooked to order, so if you want it right away, you should call and reserve your order at least 20 minutes in advance. Since we didn’t, we also ordered a Buchu-jeon (chive pancake) to enjoy while we waited.

Refreshing Makgeolli

We ordered a jug of Wolchulsan Makgeolli (7,000 won). It’s a generous serving – the jug holds the equivalent of two bottles of Jangsu Makgeolli. I had never tried Wolchulsan Makgeolli before. It has a slightly brown color and a surprisingly clean and refreshing taste. Made only with nuruk (fermentation starter), it reminded me of the homemade makgeolli I used to drink in the countryside. It wasn’t sweet at all, just pleasantly savory. I was happy to find it didn’t contain any aspartame. It’s delicious and quite captivating.

Crispy Buchu-jeon

The Buchu-jeon came with a soy sauce dipping sauce. Unlike modern versions with lots of chives and very little flour, this was a more traditional Buchu-jeon, with a good balance of both. It was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, the perfect accompaniment to the makgeolli.

The Samhap Feast Arrives

The table was set with raw garlic cloves, pickled garlic, raw sliced onions, fermented shrimp, doenjang (soybean paste), and gochujang (chili paste). Then, finally, the Hongeo Samhap arrived! It consisted of slices of fermented skate, freshly boiled pork belly, and aged, seasoned kimchi.

Pork Perfection

Let’s start with the pork belly. It was a generous portion of front leg meat, with a good balance of fatty and lean parts. The pork had absolutely no unpleasant smell. It was well worth the 20-minute wait. Cooking it fresh made all the difference.

Deeply Flavored Kimchi

The aged kimchi was also excellent. While Jeolla Province cuisine is often perceived as salty, that’s not always the case anymore. This aged kimchi, despite being several years old and heavily seasoned, had no musty flavors and a deep, rich taste.

The Star of the Show: Hongeo

Until recently, Hongtak House used Chilean skate, but due to a shortage, they’ve switched to domestic skate. The owner mentioned that the skate was less fermented than usual because it had just arrived that day. It was still excellent: the slices were thick, had a good color, and a pleasant, pungent aroma. It was perfect for those new to Hongeo or those who prefer a milder flavor. I personally enjoy a more intensely fermented Hongeo – the ammonia-like smell is something I find incredibly appealing.

The Perfect Combination

The combination of the Hongeo, pork belly, and kimchi is divine, especially with the Wolchulsan Makgeolli. Each component is delicious on its own, but together, they create a flavor explosion. A true symphony of flavors!

Bonus Treats

As we were eating, a serving of Kongnamul-jjim (spicy braised bean sprouts) appeared – a signature side dish of Hongtak House. The seasoning was fantastic, and the bean sprouts had a wonderful texture. It was as delicious as it looked, and the makgeolli kept flowing. Then, because we visited during the owner’s mealtime, we were lucky enough to get a bowl of Hongeo Aetang (skate liver soup). The broth was rich and flavorful, with a hint of the signature Hongeo tang. Heating the hongeo increases its pungency. It was heaven!

And then, incredibly, the owner brought us a plate of raw Hongeo Ae (skate liver)! This is a rare delicacy, usually reserved for special customers and only available when the skate is fresh. I had never tried raw skate liver before. It was creamy and rich, almost like a decadent cream. It simply melted in my mouth. Thanks to the raw Hongeo, we ordered another jug of makgeolli. However, the raw Hongeo is only available if you’re very lucky and become friendly with the owner.

This visit to Hongtak House was a fantastic experience, filled with authentic Jeolla cuisine and warm hospitality. As we were leaving, the owner even sprayed us with Febreze! A truly memorable meal.

Jeongneung: Comfort Food at Bonghwa Muk House

Journey to the Buckwheat Jelly Master

Our second stop takes us to Jeongneung and Bonghwa Muk House. From Ui Sinseol Line’s Jeongneung Station exit 2, cross the street and walk right. Continue straight, and you’ll spot the restaurant across the street. The crosswalk isn’t necessary, but it’s safer for pedestrians.

The name “Bonghwa” comes from the hometown of the original owner, from Gyeongsangbuk-do Bonghwa. This establishment has been around since 1982, boasting a 45-year tradition. Enter from the left side.

Google Search Assessment:
A Google search for “봉화묵집 정릉” (Bonghwa Muk House Jeongneung) yields positive results. Reviews highlight the delicious and comforting nature of their Memilmuk and other dishes. Many mention the cozy, home-like atmosphere and the friendly owner. It’s often described as a local favorite and a hidden gem.

From Google Maps reviews:

• Cozy and welcoming atmosphere.
• Delicious Memilmuk and other traditional Korean dishes.
• Friendly and attentive service.
• Reasonable prices.

A Welcoming Atmosphere

The restaurant felt like stepping into someone’s home, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. The owner’s friendliness made it even more welcoming.

The Order

We ordered Memilmuk, steamed dumplings, and Dongdongju (another type of unfiltered rice wine). We asked if we could order the hand-cut noodles (kalguksu) later. The owner happily obliged, assuring us we could eat everything. We requested the Memilmuk and dumplings first and some radish kimchi.

Savory Buckwheat Tea

Before our food arrived, we were served a cup of buckwheat tea. It had a lovely, savory aroma.

Memilmuk Magic

We ordered the Memilmuk and Dongdongju. In winter, the Memilmuk is served warm; in summer, it’s served cold. The dish was topped with shredded seaweed, aged kimchi, and sesame seeds. I usually prefer Dotori-muk (acorn jelly) and haven’t been particularly impressed with Muk-sabal (cold jelly soup) in the past. However, this Memilmuk was exceptional. The delicate flavor of the Memilmuk, the broth, and the toppings created a harmonious blend of flavors. The Memilmuk itself was wonderfully chewy.

Initially, I thought it was perfect without any seasoning. However, as the owner suggested, I added some chili peppers and the provided sauce. It instantly transformed into an irresistible dish. It was surprisingly delicious!

Sweet Dongdongju

The Dongdongju was beautifully colored, almost too pretty to drink. It had a sweet flavor, as Dongdongju usually does. The sweetness paired perfectly with the subtly flavored food.

Rustic Dumplings

The steamed dumplings looked quite rustic and uneven. These were definitely handmade! They came with a soy sauce and vinegar dipping sauce. Although they weren’t pretty, they were incredibly tempting. The dumpling skin was chewy and the filling consisted of kimchi, glass noodles, and tofu. Delicious! They may taste bland to some, but dipping them in the sauce makes them perfect.

Soothing Kalguksu

Finally, we ordered the Kalguksu. I originally wanted to order the Geonjin-guksu (dry noodles with sauce), but it’s only available in summer. The Kalguksu was topped with seaweed, egg garnish, and scallions. The broth was made from beef bone. The soup was subtly flavored, it felt like the perfect hangover cure (even though I wasn’t hungover). The noodles were thin and had a distinct wheat flour smell, which I found appealing. Adding chili peppers and seasoning created a familiar, delicious flavor, but I personally preferred it without.

The side dishes of kimchi and pickled radish were simple and clean, complementing the main dishes perfectly.

A Culinary Conclusion

Both restaurants were incredibly charming. One showcased Jeolla cuisine, while the other highlighted Gyeongsang cuisine. As I mentioned earlier, let’s not get caught up in regional rivalries when it comes to food. Let’s simply enjoy the deliciousness!

Thank you for joining me on this culinary adventure! If you enjoyed this video and found it helpful, please subscribe, like, and turn on notifications.