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La Yeon at The Shilla Seoul: A Michelin 3-Star Korean Fine Dining Experience

Venturing into the realm of Michelin-starred dining in Seoul, I recently had the pleasure of visiting La Yeon, the esteemed Korean restaurant located within The Shilla Hotel. Seoul boasts two Michelin three-star establishments, Gaon and La Yeon, both representing the pinnacle of Korean cuisine. It’s important to remember that Michelin stars, while prestigious, are a guide, not the ultimate determinant of a dining experience. Culinary gems can be found in unexpected places, and personal taste always plays a significant role. However, for those seeking curated culinary excellence, Michelin-recommended restaurants, along with resources like the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, serve as invaluable starting points. The increased recognition and interest in restaurants following Michelin selections are undeniably beneficial for diners.

Ambiance and Location

The journey to La Yeon at The Shilla Hotel itself is part of the experience. My usual entrance was temporarily closed due to ongoing Hanok renovations, leading me through a different, equally elegant, hotel entrance. La Yeon’s reputation precedes it, consistently holding three Michelin stars since Michelin’s arrival in Seoul in 2017, cementing its status as a leading Korean fine dining destination. Unlike contemporary Korean cuisine establishments like Jungsik and Mingles, La Yeon leans more towards traditional, authentic Korean fare, albeit elevated to an exquisite level. Located on the 23rd floor of The Shilla Hotel, sharing the space with Conti and the Executive Lounge, La Yeon offers stunning city views. The interior, as captured in the photos, was remarkably spacious and serene during my early visit, allowing for comfortable and private dining. The generous spacing between tables is a noticeable luxury, contributing to the overall refined atmosphere and justifying the premium pricing.

Dining Experience & Course Breakdown

Menu Options

La Yeon’s lunch menu presents three course options: A Course, La Yeon Course, and Bigeum Course. Opting for the La Yeon Course, I bypassed the Bigeum (vegetarian) option. The A Course initially appears attractive at ₩109,000, but a closer look reveals that it omits the main course, which incurs an additional ₩49,000 charge if desired. With main course choices like Tteokgalbi (grilled short rib patties) and Galbijjim (braised short ribs), selecting a main dish becomes almost inevitable, pushing the price closer to ₩158,000 – a point of slight initial surprise. The La Yeon Course, however, offers a more straightforward pricing structure with no hidden main course additions.

Appetizers (Amuse-bouche)

The meal commenced with delightful amuse-bouches: dried jujubes, seaweed fritters (Gamtae Twigak), and a welcoming steamed egg (Gyeran Jjim). The dried jujubes were particularly addictive, boasting a sweet, crisp texture reminiscent of a delicate confection. The seaweed fritters offered a subtle sweetness and gentle sea flavor, though they tended to stick slightly to the palate. The welcome dish, a silky steamed egg topped with pollock roe (Myeongran), was served warm and inviting. The server mentioned the eggs were from free-range chickens and detailed the type of Myeongran used, though specifics are now a pleasant blur. While delicious, the portion was quite small, leaving me wanting a bit more of this comforting start.

Scallop Salad (Key-Jogae Baengchae)

The presentation of the scallop salad was truly artistic. Finely diced scallops were interspersed with zucchini, adorned with edible flowers and borage. Visually, it was reminiscent of a vibrant open-faced sandwich, demanding admiration before the first bite. While aesthetically captivating, and subtly flavored, the scallop portion was somewhat modest, suggesting a focus on visual appeal over substantial quantity at this stage of the course.

Yukjeon (Beef Pancake)

The Yukjeon, or beef pancake, was a standout dish, impeccably prepared. Thin slices of high-quality beef, lightly coated and delicately pan-fried, were served with scallion garnish. It exemplified a refined version of a classic Korean dish. This dish highlighted what the reviewer perceived as a subtle complexity at La Yeon – the restaurant offers incredibly well-executed versions of Korean dishes, achieving a ’95-point’ quality, but perhaps facing comparison to more readily available ’85-point’ versions in the broader culinary landscape, considering the price difference. Unlike Western fine dining which often presents dishes impossible to replicate at home, high-quality traditional Korean cuisine like Yukjeon, while exceptional at La Yeon, might feel conceptually closer to home-style cooking. However, for international diners, this level of authentic yet refined Korean cuisine is likely an unparalleled and deeply impressive experience.

Grilled Golden Tilefish (Geumtae)

Perfectly grilled golden tilefish (Geumtae) followed, naturally rich in flavor and oils. It was served atop a sauce crafted from golden tilefish broth, Hallabong (Jeju citrus), and a touch of Gochujang (Korean chili paste). The sauce offered a subtle citrus note and a hint of spice, resembling a refined, less pungent Gochujang stew. While delicious, the reviewer personally prefers a more pronounced spicy kick, perhaps a stronger Gochujang presence. Accompanying the fish were lightly braised cabbage leaves, adding a textural and flavorful counterpoint, expertly cooked to retain a pleasant firmness.

Main Dish – Galbijjim (Braised Short Ribs)

The Galbijjim was the undisputed highlight of the meal, arguably the best braised short ribs the reviewer had ever tasted. The balance of meat and fat was ideal, the sauce deeply flavorful yet not overly salty, perfectly permeating the ribs. Vegetables accompanied the dish, adding freshness. For those hesitant about Galbijjim, or inclined towards grilled options, a grilled sirloin (Deungsim-gui) was also available. However, the Galbijjim was unequivocally recommended. Interestingly, the main course was served without rice, which the reviewer felt was a slight oversight, as Galbijjim begs to be savored with rice. The Galbijjim was truly exceptional and highly recommended.

Main Dish Option – Grilled Sirloin (Deungsim-gui)

The grilled sirloin (Deungsim-gui), the alternative main course, was presented as excellently grilled Hanwoo beef. It was noted that La Yeon tends to cook meats slightly more well-done than Western medium-rare standards. Despite this, the sirloin was flavorful and tender, served with grilled vegetables dressed with a light vinaigrette.

Rice Course – Domi Sotbab (Tilefish Rice Pot)

For the rice course, a choice was offered amongst abalone rice pot, soybean noodle soup, abalone congee, and the seasonal tilefish rice pot (Domi Sotbab), which was selected. Side dishes (banchan) accompanied the rice, along with soy sauce for seasoning. The reviewer opted for minimal soy sauce, preferring a more delicate flavor. The Domi Sotbab was delicious, featuring well-cooked tilefish, mushrooms, and bamboo shoots, all contributing to a rich and aromatic flavor profile. The bamboo shoots and mushrooms were lightly seasoned, enhancing the overall taste. The reviewer expressed a desire to add hot water to the pot after finishing the rice, to enjoy a scorched rice tea (Nurungji) – a common Korean practice with Sotbab. The tilefish rice pot was enjoyed both directly and mixed, demonstrating its versatility.

Dessert – Seasonal Fruit Soup and Ice Dessert

The dessert course offered a refreshing transition: a seasonal fruit soup and an ice dessert featuring Hallabong and Yuza (citron). The ice dessert provided a pleasant sweet and tangy finish. The base, initially mistaken for a puree, was revealed to be a Hallabong jelly, combined with Hallabong and Yuza segments. While not typically a fan of overly sour desserts, the reviewer found this dessert well-balanced and enjoyable. The dessert style leaned towards Western presentation, while incorporating Korean citrus ingredients.

Tea and Sweets – Ssuktteok (Mugwort Rice Cake) and Omija Tea

The final course concluded with mugwort rice cake (Ssuktteok) and Omija tea (magnolia berry tea). The Ssuktteok was delicately decorated with a tiny flower. However, its soft texture and slight adherence to the plate presented a minor eating challenge, eventually overcome with a bit of maneuvering. The Ssuktteok, once managed, was a pleasant final sweet note. Omija tea, with its complex sweet, sour, and slightly bitter notes, provided a refreshing and digestif conclusion.

Pros and Cons & Overall Impression

La Yeon at The Shilla Hotel offers an undeniably exceptional dining experience, befitting its three-Michelin star status. The quality of ingredients, particularly in dishes like the Geumtae and Domi Sotbab, and the exquisite preparation, especially of the Galbijjim, were outstanding. The service and ambiance were impeccable, reflecting the high standards of The Shilla Hotel, with particularly noteworthy table spacing. However, the price point is undeniably high, and for those deeply familiar with Korean home-style cooking, the value proposition might be perceived differently compared to those less acquainted with or seeking an elevated interpretation of Korean cuisine. To maximize enjoyment, especially for those who frequently eat Korean home-style meals, the reviewer humorously suggests preceding a La Yeon visit with a non-Korean meal to fully appreciate the refined nuances. The reviewer confesses to a slight internal debate regarding value for money, acknowledging the premium pricing.

Rating and Location Summary

General Rating: Highly Recommended (Michelin 3-Star)

Location: The Shilla Hotel, 23rd Floor, Seoul, South Korea

Conclusion

In conclusion, La Yeon at The Shilla Seoul delivers a truly memorable Korean fine dining experience. While the cost is considerable, the exceptional quality of food, particularly the Galbijjim, combined with impeccable service and a luxurious ambiance, makes it a worthwhile destination for special occasions or for those seeking to experience the pinnacle of Korean culinary artistry. It is particularly well-suited for international visitors or those desiring a sophisticated and refined introduction to Korean cuisine.

Disclaimer: This review is based on a personal dining experience and reflects individual opinions.

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