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Saedorak: A 30-Year-Old Gyeongyangsik Donkatsu Gem in Dapsimni, Seoul
Craving authentic, old-school Korean donkatsu? Look no further than Saedorak, a beloved institution in Dapsimni, Dongdaemun-gu. Established in 1995, this family-run restaurant has been serving up nostalgic flavors for three decades. Forget the trendy, thick-cut Japanese tonkatsu; Saedorak specializes in gyeongyangsik donkatsu, the style that reigned supreme in the 80s and 90s. While not the cheapest option, the quality and taste are exceptional, making it a must-try for any donkatsu enthusiast.
Finding Saedorak: A Mini-Adventure in Dapsimni
Saedorak isn’t exactly hidden, but it requires a little navigation. Here’s how to find it:
- Exit Dapsimni Station (Line 5) at Exit 16.
- Walk straight.
- Turn left.
- Continue straight.
- At the intersection, cross diagonally.
- Turn left again.
- Cross the pedestrian crossing on your left.
- Walk straight, and you’ll see a pillar with “Dapsimni Market” written on it. Saedorak is right next to it.
Saedorak is located right in front of the East Gate of Dapsimni Market. The name, “Saedorak,” is a bit of a mystery, but the restaurant itself is anything but. Prepare for a warm welcome; the staff, from the owner to the servers, are incredibly friendly and attentive. The open kitchen adds to the cozy and trustworthy atmosphere. The restaurant is a family affair, with the mother and son team working diligently in the kitchen. Despite the limited space, the place exudes charm and comfort.
The Menu: A Donkatsu Lover’s Paradise
Donkatsu is the undisputed star here. The menu is almost exclusively dedicated to various donkatsu preparations, showcasing the restaurant’s dedication to perfecting this classic dish. I ordered the Mixed Donkatsu (Modeum Gaseu) and the Spicy Chewy Noodles with Donkatsu (Jaengban Jjol Donkatsu).
Before the main dishes arrived, I was presented with an array of sauces and condiments: a mysterious black and white sauce (the chef’s secret!), truffle oil, peppercorns, and a vibrant pink dressing. A side of chili peppers was also offered. The complimentary soup was reminiscent of the classic, comforting O**ogi cream soup, but elevated and more refined.
A Deep Dive into the Donkatsu Delights
Mixed Donkatsu (Modeum Gaseu)
The Mixed Donkatsu is a delightful assortment featuring:
- Pork Cutlet (Donkatsu)
- Fish Cutlet (Saengseon Gaseu)
- Shrimp Cutlet (Saeu Gaseu)
The plate also included rice and a simple cabbage salad topped with cornflakes.
Pork Cutlet: The star of the show. The donkatsu was perfectly crispy, just as you’d expect from a classic gyeongyangsik version. The sauce was a well-balanced blend of sweet and savory, an ideal complement to the pork. The pork was tender and expertly pounded to a suitable thickness. The crispy coating adhered perfectly to the meat, a testament to the restaurant’s 30 years of experience. There was absolutely no hint of any unpleasant porky odor, even the faintest trace. It was simply perfect. This is a testament to how good an old fashion Donkatsu can be.
Fish Cutlet: Two pieces of fish cutlet topped with tartar sauce. While likely made with frozen fish, it was surprisingly delicious. The flaky fish and crispy crust was an excellent combination. However, those sensitive to creamy sauces might find it a bit rich. The chili peppers provide a welcome kick to cut through the richness.
Shrimp Cutlet: Shrimp cutlets at this price point are usually made with frozen shrimp, so my expectations were low. However, I was pleasantly surprised! The shrimp had a distinct flavor that defied its frozen origins. The sauce on the plate was also excellent and enhanced the flavor even more. I can’t say whether they use fresh shrimp, it was extremely delicious.
The pink dressing turned out to be a homemade strawberry dressing, showcasing the restaurant’s commitment to crafting everything from scratch.
Spicy Chewy Noodles with Donkatsu (Jaengban Jjol Donkatsu)
This dish is a Korean fusion masterpiece: donkatsu paired with jjolmyeon (spicy chewy noodles). The vibrant plate was piled high with lettuce, boiled egg, cabbage, carrots, and purple cabbage. After mixing the noodles with the spicy sauce and drizzling the donkatsu sauce over the cutlet, I was ready to dive in.
The donkatsu in this dish was the same perfectly cooked cutlet from the Mixed Donkatsu. But the real revelation was the jjolmyeon. This wasn’t your typical snack bar jjolmyeon. The vegetables were incredibly fresh, and the sauce was a delightful balance of sweet and spicy. The noodles were cooked to perfection, with a satisfying chewiness. The combination of the crispy donkatsu and the spicy noodles was unexpectedly harmonious. While similar dishes exist elsewhere, Saedorak’s version is truly exceptional. While I loved the Mixed Donkatsu, the Jaengban Jjol Donkatsu is something I would frequently crave for!
Saedorak: A Culinary Revelation
My visit to Saedorak was truly memorable. It’s not an advertisement; it’s a genuine recommendation based on pure deliciousness. The restaurant’s commitment to quality, the warm hospitality, and the nostalgic flavors make it a standout in Seoul’s crowded food scene. If you want an authentic Gyeongyangsik Donkatsu experience, you won’t be disappointed.
Bonus Review: Jeollado Yetmat Son Kalguksu (near Gwanak Mountain)
During the filming of a restaurant advertisement near Gwanak Mountain, I stumbled upon another hidden gem: Jeollado Yetmat Son Kalguksu, specializing in handmade noodle soup (kalguksu). The actual registered name on Naver is Hwangok Works Jeollado Yetmat Son Kalguksu. The restaurant was clean and spacious, with a second floor for larger groups.
I ordered the Clam Noodle Soup (Bajirak Kalguksu), Red Bean Noodle Soup (Pat Kalguksu), and Red Bean Porridge (Pat-aljuk). One dish completely blew me away.
The Bajirak Kalguksu was the star of the show. The sheer amount of clams was astounding, and the quality was exceptional. Unlike many restaurants that use frozen clams, Jeollado Yetmat Son Kalguksu uses fresh, live clams. The clams were plump, juicy, and bursting with the flavor of the sea. I typically avoid eating all the clams in other restaurants when I eat noodle soups, because they are typically small and frozen. This place, though, used incredibly fresh and great clams.
The broth was light, clean, and incredibly flavorful. It’s not based on anchovy or seafood broth, but instead a minimal broth with amazing flavours. The broth combined with fresh clams create amazing flavour. The noodles were perfectly chewy and delicious. I cannot describe in words how good it was. This broth made my day.
The Pat Kalguksu was equally impressive. The red bean broth was made with 100% Korean red beans, ground fresh in the restaurant. The noodles were chewy and delicious, and the broth was rich, smooth, and not overly sweet. I added sugar as suggested by the owner, which further enhanced the flavor. It was heavenly.
Finally, the Pat-aljuk contained little rice cakes, which were also made in-house. It’s easy to eat and very delicious.
This place is a true gem. If you love clam noodles, you should not miss this restaurant.
Google Search Assessment: Dapsimni Donkatsu Restaurants
A quick Google search for “Dapsimni Donkatsu” (답십리 돈까스) reveals several options, but Saedorak consistently appears with positive reviews and mentions in blogs and online forums. Many reviewers praise its authentic flavor, generous portions, and reasonable prices. Other popular options in the area include more modern and fusion-style donkatsu restaurants, showcasing the diversity of the Dapsimni culinary scene. However, Saedorak stands out for its dedication to the traditional gyeongyangsik style, making it a unique and worthwhile dining destination.
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