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Rediscovering Culinary Treasures in Seoul: Galbitang and Kalguksu Adventures

Join me as I revisit some hidden culinary gems in Seoul, exploring both a revitalized Galbitang (Korean beef rib soup) restaurant and a famous Kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup) spot. Get ready for a delicious journey through the heart of Korean cuisine!

Part 1: Majang-dong Halmeoni Galbitang – A Nostalgic Return

My quest begins in Majang-dong, a district known for its meat markets and traditional eateries. I was on a mission to revisit a Galbitang restaurant that used to be legendary for its delicious, no-frills soup. I’d heard whispers that this establishment, previously known as the ‘Galbitang Restaurant Without a Sign,’ had reopened after a brief closure. My last visit was in 2021 when the price was a steal at ₩7,000. Could it still be that price? Even ₩10,000 would be a steal!

The anticipation was high as I made my way from Yongdu Station, Exit 5. The directions were simple: turn around upon exiting, walk straight, cross the pedestrian crossing (remember to press the button!), and continue until you see the sign. I almost made a mistake at the crossing, nearly waiting forever for the light to change! After navigating the final turn, there it was: Majang-dong Halmeoni Galbitang! My biggest worry was whether they would have sold out for the day, as they are known to run out of soup quickly during lunchtime.

On my first attempt, my fears were realized. A sign announced, “Sold Out for the Day.” Disappointed but undeterred, I returned the following day with renewed hope.

The Rebirth of a Legend

This time, success! I walked through the doors of what was once a rustic, almost run-down establishment. The old, charming ambiance was gone, replaced by a clean and modern interior. While I missed the old atmosphere, the focus was still the same: amazing galbitang.

Being a huge Galbitang enthusiast, I immediately ordered the ‘Special’ (Teuk) portion. The price was no longer the legendary ₩7,000 of yesteryear, but at ₩12,000, it was still very reasonable compared to current Galbitang prices. The restaurant proudly sources all ingredients domestically, including the beef ribs from Yugu, which is known for its high-quality Hanwoo.

Before the Galbitang arrived, I took note of the details. The table setting included a bowl for bones, pepper, salt, a paper cup, and a jug of… Buckwheat tea! Excellent choice! Buckwheat tea is known for its health benefits, especially for the eyes. The side dishes included soy sauce, radish kimchi, and napa cabbage kimchi. The previous versions of side dishes had been more elaborate.

Then, the star of the show arrived. The ‘Special’ Galbitang was a sight to behold. The server mentioned that the meat portions were larger in the ‘Special’ due to a change in cuts. The rice was mixed with black rice, a healthier option. The presentation of the Galbitang itself was similar to how I remembered it, perhaps even more generous than before. The bowl and the soup spoon had changed also.

A Taste of Tradition

I couldn’t wait any longer. I took a spoonful of the broth. Perfect! The taste was exactly as I remembered it: a light yet deeply flavorful broth that only comes with years of experience. Unlike many modern Galbitang variations that use bone broth, add glass noodles, or infuse with medicinal herbs, this was a classic Galbitang, made the traditional way. It reminded me of the Galbitang served at celebratory gatherings long ago – clear, clean, and comforting.

Of course, no Galbitang is complete without dangmyeon (glass noodles)! Just as you can’t remove bracken from Yukgaejang (spicy beef soup) or potatoes from Gamjatang (pork bone stew), you can’t remove dangmyeon from Galbitang. Slurping up those noodles brought pure joy. The meat portion was generous for the price. The ribs weren’t perfectly shaped like the traditional Galbitang ribs; they were cut thinner, almost like LA-style ribs. Most of the meat was rib meat, but there were also some magurisal (end rib meat). Magurisal is technically still rib meat, so no complaints there. The meat was tender, juicy, and easy to pull off the bone, with a delightful savory flavor. A shot of soju with the Galbitang would have created an unforgettable pairing, though pushing the meal price up. Dipping rice in broth is always a must!

The kimchi deserves special mention. It wasn’t overly fermented or filled with fish sauce, but rather fresh and flavorful. It paired perfectly with the Galbitang. The broth was so clean and refreshing that I, who rarely finish soup, drank every last drop. This Galbitang didn’t leave me thirsty later, indicating minimal use of MSG.

While it’s no longer the ridiculously affordable ₩7,000 Galbitang of the past, Majang-dong Halmeoni Galbitang is still a great value. Considering the price of so many basic Korean dishes surpassing ₩10,000, paying ₩12,000 for a Galbitang of this quality is a bargain. The restaurant is now run by the owner’s grandson, but I was happy to learn that the grandmother (Halmeoni) is still actively involved and overseeing the flavor. I hope she stays healthy and continues to make delicious Galbitang for years to come!

Location Assessment via Google Search:

A quick Google search for “Majang-dong Halmeoni Galbitang” reveals that the restaurant enjoys positive reviews. Patrons consistently praise the flavorful broth, tender meat, and reasonable prices. Many reviews also highlight the restaurant’s history and the traditional preparation method. Some reviews also mention potential wait times during peak hours, reinforcing the restaurant’s popularity.

Part 2: A Classic Kalguksu Experience in Sogong-dong

Next stop: Sogong-dong near City Hall, to visit a famous Kalguksu restaurant known for its intense anchovy broth. This place is so popular that I’ve been trying to film here for three years, but it’s always packed! Finally, I arrived 30 minutes before closing time.

From City Hall Station Exit 7, a short walk and a left turn led me to the restaurant. Passing “Hwanggeumseong”, take a right. There it was: Hyundai Kalguksu! I ordered one Kalguksu and one Mul Mandu (boiled dumplings), separately!

Established in 1982, Hyundai Kalguksu is a long-standing institution in Sogong-dong. The ‘Seok Kalguksu’ is a variation of Kalguksu with boiled dumplings added to it. The table was set with kimchi, a scallion-based sauce, and sliced green chilies. Like the Galbitang restaurant, the kimchi here was also excellent.

Dumplings and Noodles

First, the Mul Mandu arrived. To be honest, they were nothing special – just your typical store-bought dumplings. It’s recommended to just order the Seok Kalguksu. However, the dumplings were perfectly boiled, resulting in a chewy texture and juicy filling. Dipping them in soy sauce was a simple yet satisfying appetizer while waiting for the Kalguksu.

Next came the Kalguksu. The first thing I noticed was the aroma of the broth. This place uses anchovy stock from start to finish. The broth was seasoned, a little salty, but with the noodles, it was perfect. The rich anchovy flavor was incredible. The soup has anchovy depth and flavour that’s not so common nowadays. I’ve been to many Kalguksu restaurants, and this one has one of the most intense anchovy broths I’ve ever tasted. Especially delicious on a rainy day! It reminded me of the broth at Gijang Son Kalguksu in Seomyeon, Busan, but this one was even more intense.

The noodles were thick, like Udon noodles, but the chef’s 40+ years of experience in making these noodles showed in the perfectly cooked texture: plump, chewy, and springy. Pairing them with kimchi was heavenly. Adding the scallion sauce and sliced green chilies elevated the flavor even further. And, the anchovy taste even more profound.

As for refill, this place offers unlimited rice and noodles as well as boiled dumplings. So, adding rice to the soup with the dumplings makes a very satisfying meal!

Based on the owner’s accent, I’m guessing that Hyundai Kalguksu originates from the Gyeongsang Province, as the style of anchovy Kalguksu is slightly different from those in Seoul, Gyeonggi Province, or Jeolla Province.

The server showed me that their restaurant has been used as a filming location. Many dramas were shot there, like “The Negotiation”!

If you’re ever craving Kalguksu in Sogong-dong near City Hall, Hyundai Kalguksu is a must-visit. It’s one of the places I visit occasionally, and it never disappoints.

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