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Michelin Star Korean Dining Experience: A Review of La Yeon at The Shilla Hotel Seoul

I recently had the pleasure of dining at La Yeon, the renowned Korean restaurant located within The Shilla Hotel in Seoul. Seoul boasts two Michelin three-star Korean restaurants: Gaon in Cheongdam and La Yeon here at The Shilla. Being awarded three stars is no small feat, signifying an exceptional dining experience. While Michelin stars aren’t the absolute authority on taste – after all, delicious discoveries can be made anywhere, even by just walking into a random restaurant – they serve as a valuable reference point when choosing where to dine. Personally, I find Michelin-selected restaurants, particularly those featured in guides like “Le Guide Michelin,” often provide a higher level of satisfaction. However, it’s always wise to approach dining with an open mind and a spirit of adventure!

The entrance to La Yeon has recently changed due to ongoing renovations at the Hanok expansion, requiring a detour through the hotel’s main entrance. La Yeon has consistently held its Michelin three-star status since Michelin Guide Seoul’s inception in 2017, solidifying its position as one of the most celebrated Korean restaurants. Unlike contemporary Korean cuisine establishments like Jungsik and Mingles, La Yeon leans towards a more traditional yet refined Korean dining experience. While Jungsik and Mingles might be categorized as Korean contemporary cuisine with innovative and visually striking presentations that are hard to replicate at home, La Yeon offers sophisticated, authentic Korean dishes.

In my opinion, while I wouldn’t definitively call La Yeon the absolute best Korean restaurant, it certainly has its merits and demerits. (For a more detailed, slightly critical review, you can check out my 5-minute video review around the 6-minute mark).

Ambiance and Location

The view from La Yeon is simply stunning, being situated on the 23rd floor of The Shilla Hotel. It shares the floor with the Continental restaurant and the Executive Lounge. The interior, as you can see in the photos, was thankfully empty when I arrived, making for easy, unobstructed shots. The generous spacing between tables is a notable plus, contributing to a more private and luxurious dining atmosphere. Of course, this spaciousness is reflected in the price – you’re paying for not having more tables crammed in!

Lunch Menu Choices

La Yeon offers three lunchコース (courses): A, La Yeon, and B course. As I am not a vegan, the B course was not for me. The choice typically boils down to the A and La Yeon courses. The A course initially seems appealing at ₩109,000, appearing quite reasonable. However, a closer look reveals that adding a main dish incurs an additional ₩49,000 charge. The main dish options are Korean classics like Tteokgalbi (grilled short rib patties) and Galbijjim (braised short ribs), both meat-centric dishes. Opting for a main dish effectively raises the price to ₩158,000. It felt a bit misleading to see the ₩109,000 price point and then realize the main component is extra. Unlike many places where menu upgrades are standard, here, the main dish is completely absent from the base course. I chose the La Yeon course, which has no hidden additional costs. While you can add dishes like *Sinseollo* (royal hot pot), I had tried it on a previous visit and wasn’t particularly impressed, so I skipped it this time.

A Culinary Journey Through the La Yeon Course

Amuse-bouche

The meal began with *Jujeonburi* – dried jujubes and *Gamtae Tigak* (seaweed crisps). These were incredibly delicious. The dried jujubes were sweet, with a delightful, crisp texture, almost like a candy, making them quite addictive. The *Gamtae Tigak* were also subtly sweet with a hint of seaweed flavor, a pleasant start to the meal. They did tend to stick to the palate a bit, making water a welcome accompaniment. Next was the welcoming dish, a steamed egg custard topped with *Myeongran* (salted pollock roe). The egg was made with free-range eggs, and the *Myeongran*, as explained by the server, was of a specific high quality, though the details escape me now. The server suggested mixing the egg and roe, but I preferred to savor them separately to appreciate their individual flavors. The portion was quite small, more of a welcome bite than a substantial starter, unlike the generous welcome dishes often found in sushi restaurants.

Scallop and Yukjeon

The Scallop *Baengchae* (salad) presentation was visually stunning. Finely sliced scallops were layered with zucchini, adorned with flowers and shrimp heads. It reminded me of a high-end open-faced sandwich – more of a feast for the eyes initially. However, despite its delicate appearance, the overall course menu proved to be quite filling. The scallop portion itself was on the smaller side, perhaps warranting two bites at once, but I savored each piece individually. It was nicely paired with *Samnamul Jangso Su* (wild chive sauce). The *Yukjeon* (thinly sliced pan-fried beef) was exceptionally well-prepared. The beef was of high quality, lightly coated and thinly pan-fried to perfection, topped with a sprig of scallion. This dish highlighted a slight duality I perceive in La Yeon. While the *Yukjeon* is undeniably outstanding—difficult to find elsewhere at this quality—a slightly less refined version is still quite accessible. La Yeon’s *Yukjeon* is perhaps a 95/100, while more common versions might score around 85/100. However, the price difference is significant. Unlike French or sushi cuisine, which are challenging to replicate at home (my past sushi-making attempts were…questionable), authentic Korean dishes like *Yukjeon*, even at La Yeon’s elevated standard, feel somewhat replicable in a home kitchen. This might create a slightly ambiguous feeling for some. However, from a foreign perspective, this level of authentic Korean cuisine, rarely experienced in a home setting, offers a unique and delightful experience. The taste is undeniably excellent, with high-quality ingredients and a sense of tradition. The satisfaction might vary depending on how frequently one eats Korean home-style meals. La Yeon, in essence, presents a very high-end version of home-style Korean food, which can be appealing to those who appreciate elevated comfort food.

Grilled Mackerel and Braised Short Ribs

Next was perfectly grilled *Geumtae* (amberjack). Being an oily fish, its richness was immediately apparent. It was served with a sauce made from *Geumtae* broth, Hallabong orange, and a touch of *Gochujang* (Korean chili paste). The sauce offered a citrusy note and a mild, spicy, stew-like flavor, more refined than a typical *Gochujang*-heavy stew, closer to a soup. It complemented the rich mackerel without overpowering it. Pickled cabbage and *Bugak* (fried seaweed chips) accompanied the dish, adding nice textural and flavor contrasts. The *Bugak* were particularly good, not overly fried. While the dish had a soup-like quality, it lacked a certain spiciness I personally prefer and could have benefited from more *Gochujang* for my taste. However, it was still delicious. The main course was Galbijjim (braised short ribs). La Yeon’s Galbijjim is truly exceptional, arguably the best I’ve ever tasted. The ratio of fat to meat was ideal, the sauce was perfectly balanced—flavorful but not overly salty—and the meat was incredibly tender. Vegetables were also included. For those who prefer grilled dishes, the menu also offered Hanwoo (Korean beef) tenderloin steak. While undoubtedly high-quality and perfectly cooked, Hanwoo is more readily available elsewhere. If grilling is your preference, or if you aren’t a fan of Galbijjim, the Hanwoo might be a good choice. My dining companions actually opted for the Hanwoo over the Galbijjim. The Galbijjim, in my opinion, deserves a solid 6/10 rating (likely meaning excellent within his personal rating system). I personally feel that main dishes should be served with rice, and the Galbijjim would have been even more satisfying with a bowl of freshly cooked rice. It was truly an outstanding Korean dish and highly recommended.

Hanwoo Tenderloin and Domi Sottbab

The Hanwoo tenderloin, as mentioned, was flawlessly grilled. However, it seemed slightly more well-done than the typical medium I’d expect in a Western-style steakhouse, perhaps falling between medium and medium-well. Nevertheless, the flavor was excellent, accompanied by grilled vegetables with a light dressing. For the rice course, there were several choices: *Yukhoe Bibimbap* (beef tartare bibimbap), *Kongguksu* (cold soybean noodle soup), *Jeonbok Jjokbab* (abalone rice in a small pot), and the seasonal *Sottbab*, which was Domi Sottbab (sea bream rice in a pot) on this occasion. While *Jeonbok Sottbab* is also well-regarded, I chose the Domi Sottbab as I enjoy fish. (I’ve included a photo of the Jeonbok Sottbab from a previous visit). Three side dishes accompanied the *Sottbab*, all well-seasoned and flavorful. A soy sauce seasoning was provided to adjust the saltiness of the rice. I preferred it slightly less seasoned, adding just a touch of soy sauce. The Domi Sottbab itself was incredibly delicious. The sea bream was perfectly cooked, offering a delicate sweetness. Shiitake mushrooms, enoki mushrooms, and bamboo shoots were incorporated, adding depth of flavor and aroma. These ingredients were lightly seasoned, minimizing the need for added soy sauce. I particularly appreciate this style of *Sottbab* with mushroom and bamboo shoot bases. I almost wanted to pour hot water into the pot after finishing the rice to enjoy a *Nurungji* (scorched rice) tea. You can enjoy the *Sottbab* either by scooping portions as you eat or by mixing it all together. I opted for a combination, eating about a third plain and then mixing the rest. The dried jujubes from the beginning are always offered for refills, which I gladly accepted.

Dessert and Final Course

For dessert, we had seasonal fruit *Su정과* (punch) and ice confection, featuring Hallabong orange and Yuzu. It was a refreshing and cleansing end to the meal, with a pleasant sweet and tangy flavor profile. The base resembled a purée, but it was actually a Hallabong jelly, subtly flavored with Yuzu. While I don’t typically favor sour desserts, this one was surprisingly balanced and enjoyable. The final course was *Dagwa* (Korean traditional sweets) – *Ssuktteok* (mugwort rice cake) and Omija tea. The *Ssuktteok* was delicately decorated with a tiny flower. However, it proved slightly challenging to eat gracefully. The surface was very soft and slightly stuck to the bottom, making it difficult to lift cleanly. (Demonstrates a failed attempt to pick up the *Ssuktteok*). With a bit of maneuvering, I managed a slightly better attempt on the second piece. It was a thoughtful touch to prepare these bite-sized sweets for easier consumption.

Final Thoughts on La Yeon

La Yeon at The Shilla Hotel offers a truly refined Korean dining experience. Shilla Hotel cardholders also receive a discount here. Considering the high quality of meats often consumed in Korean cuisine, dining at La Yeon might be more appreciated when one has indulged in less Korean food beforehand. Perhaps enjoy other cuisines in the days leading up to your visit to fully appreciate the nuanced flavors. I found the value proposition slightly challenging due to the price point. However, from the grilled mackerel to the *Sottbab*, the dishes were consistently excellent, with the Galbijjim standing out as a highlight. The service was impeccable, as expected from The Shilla, and the overall ambiance, particularly the table spacing, was outstanding – the most generous I’ve experienced in a restaurant, ensuring privacy and a peaceful dining experience. Dining at The Shilla consistently delivers on these aspects. While my review might seem somewhat ambivalent – am I recommending it or not? – I am even slightly unsure myself! Thank you for reading (or watching the longer video). Please like and subscribe for more content!

Restaurant Location: The Shilla Hotel, 23rd Floor, 249 Dongho-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea

General Rating: Highly Recommended

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