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HoHang Morae: An Unforgettable Seafood Journey Off the Beaten Path

In a world of social media-driven dining experiences, it’s rare to find a restaurant that truly prioritizes the essence of authentic flavor. I yearned to discover a place that focused on quality over hype. Luckily, I remembered a restaurant I’d bookmarked two years ago. Back then, information was scarce, so I decided to postpone my visit. I recently revisited my notes and found it, searched again but still there was little information. Undeterred, I decided to call. The person on the other end told me it was a HoHang Morae seafood restaurant. I asked if they were open and was told it was reservation-only. Intrigued, I decided to investigate.

So, here I am, at HoHang Morae, located near Sinbanghwa Station in Seoul. This isn’t your typical walk-in restaurant; it’s a reservation-only establishment, adding an air of exclusivity and anticipation. Let’s delve into the culinary experience that awaits.

First Impressions and the Reservation System

The fact that HoHang Morae operates on a reservation-only basis, with a mandatory one-day advance booking, piqued my curiosity. Why the need for such a system? I suspect it ensures the freshest ingredients and minimizes waste, reflecting a commitment to quality over quantity.

The Menu: More Than Meets the Eye

The initial menu displayed the restaurant’s signature dish, Makhoe (assorted sliced raw fish), alongside sushi, sashimi, and spicy fish stew. However, a handwritten menu revealed a treasure trove of other options. It featured a variety of anju (side dishes perfect with alcohol), including a rare Jeonbokjuk (abalone porridge) and pickled mackerel. This hinted at a culinary depth beyond the standard seafood fare.

The Experience Begins: Handmade Gochujang (Chili Paste) and Banchan (Side Dishes)

Upon arrival, despite having a reservation, there was a slight wait – the owner single-handedly manages the restaurant. But this gave me a chance to sample the homemade gochujang (chili paste), which the owner apparently makes himself and takes pride in. The taste was a delightful blend of fruity notes and a hint of pear, distinct from mass-produced versions. The nuanced flavor sparked my anticipation for the dishes to come.

Shortly after, an array of banchan (side dishes) appeared. These included young tuna marinated in a special sauce, salted baby oysters (eoriguljeot), skate sikhae (fermented raw fish), jellyfish salad, and tofu with sesame oil. These were clearly not afterthoughts, but highlights of their own.

A Symphony of Flavors: The Banchan Breakdown

• Marinated Young Tuna: Unlike the overly sweet tuna dishes often found, this version boasted a savory flavor profile, with a hint of onion and a pleasant acidity. It was a prime example of matkkal seureopda, meaning appetizing and flavorful.
• Eoriguljeot (Salted Baby Oysters): A delightful balance of sweet and salty, with a subtle oyster flavor. The mild spiciness was palatable for those who don’t typically enjoy spicy food. The crunchy radish added a pleasant textural contrast.
• Skate Sikhae: Fermented skate dishes often have an intense sourness, but this sikhae was perfectly balanced with savory notes, reminiscent of well-aged kimchi.

These side dishes alone were a testament to the chef’s culinary expertise. But the real star of the show was yet to come.

Makgeolli Magic: A Unique Rice Wine Experience

Before the makhoe arrived, I had to try HoHang Morae’s special makgeolli. The owner served only the clear portion, infused with apple, onion, scallions, goji berries, and jujubes. It was an experience in itself. This wasn’t a standard makgeolli; it was more like a healthy, refreshing beverage with subtle hints of apple and onion. It was so pleasant that I could drink it all day. The owner mentioned it was a fruit and vegetable makgeolli, and showed how it was served from a large container. A generous amount equivalent to three bottles of standard makgeolli, showing this is a feature of the restaurant, if you ask. If you are keen to try low alcohol unique drinks, this could be for you!

The Grand Finale: Makhoe (Assorted Sliced Raw Fish)

Finally, the makhoe arrived, and it was a sight to behold. A generous mountain of assorted sliced raw fish, including miguri (eels) directly from Yeongdeok, herring, pomfret, ark shell, and a small portion of lightly frozen domestic tuna.

The presentation was reminiscent of Yongsang Hoesikdang in Gyeongju, a renowned restaurant famous for its generously portioned hoedeopbap (raw fish bibimbap). Like Yongsang Hoesikdang, HoHang Morae offered a large amount of fish, inviting you to enjoy it with the provided vegetables before mixing it with rice.

While the fish selection might not be the most expensive, the sheer volume and freshness made it a compelling value proposition, especially considering the location in Seoul. The experience had a charm that was both rustic and satisfying.

Tasting the Makhoe: A Symphony of Textures and Flavors

Individually, the fish was served slightly frozen, making it difficult to fully appreciate its individual flavor profiles. However, the fish worked incredibly well when combined with the vegetables and homemade gochujang. The crisp vegetables and the spicy-sweet gochujang created a refreshing and texturally pleasing experience.

• Ark Shell: The fresh ark shell, with its bright flavor and unique sweetness, paired perfectly with the soy sauce.
• Young Tuna: The tuna offered a delightful combination of flavor and acidity, its slightly frozen state adding a pleasant textural element.

Mixing the makhoe with the homemade gochujang elevated the dish to another level. The vegetables were perfectly cut, and the generous portion of fish made for a satisfyingly abundant mix.

The homemade gochujang was the key to the dish’s success. Made with traditional methods using pears and other fruits, it lacked the harshness often found in commercial versions. It was clean, refreshing, and perfectly balanced. The vegetables were fresh and crisp, adding to the overall quality of the dish.

Unexpected Delights: Complimentary Seafood Steamed Dish

Midway through the meal, the owner surprised me with a complimentary seafood dish (steamed dish), a gesture seemingly common based on other blog reviews. On this particular day, it included snow crab and deep-fried shrimp. The snow crab was full of sweet, succulent meat, and the deep-fried shrimp was tender and flavorful. These unplanned treats added another layer of enjoyment to the experience. Note that complimentary dishes vary based on daily availability. These extra dishes made the experience feel extra special.

Finishing Touches: Rice and Sushi

Craving some rice, I requested a bowl to mix with the remaining makhoe and gochujang. This was the perfect way to round out the meal and add a satisfying sense of fullness.

As if that weren’t enough, the owner then presented me with complimentary sushi. Ten pieces of beautifully crafted flounder sushi, served alongside miso soup. It was a great surprise.

The Sushi Revelation

The sushi was surprisingly exceptional. The flounder was incredibly tender, almost melting in my mouth, yet maintaining a pleasant firmness. The rice was perfectly cooked, and the vinegared seasoning was subtly sweet. This sushi was a revelation, exceeding expectations based on the restaurant’s overall ambiance. More than a match for a dedicated sushi restaurant.

The flounder was naturally caught and aged. I was told that the fish fat was dissolving in my mouth, a great experience. The rice was cooked in a pot which added to the unique taste, this chef has a true vision for this restaurant. This restaurant’s unique character is unexpected gifts.

Typically, a ten-piece sushi platter with three types of fish costs ₩20,000. But, as I ordered many other dishes, I was only charged ₩10,000 for this offering. I would happily revisit to experience the full ₩20,000 sushi platter. The sushi sizes weren’t too small, representing excellent value for money!

The accompanying miso soup, enriched with zucchini, wood ear mushrooms, and dried shrimp, provided an unexpected depth of flavor. The zucchini’s sweetness and the shrimp’s umami notes elevated the soup beyond the typical miso offering. It was great.

Conclusion: A Hidden Gem Worth Discovering

Having read older reviews, I arrived at HoHang Morae with a mix of anticipation and trepidation. While the initial wait and simple ambiance might deter some, the exceptional food and genuine hospitality made it a truly memorable experience. The homemade gochujang, the delicious side dishes, and the surprise sushi were particularly noteworthy.

I highly recommend HoHang Morae to those seeking an authentic, no-frills dining experience in a cozy atmosphere. This place is great for those that want to drink alcohol, with unique homemade drinks available. The owner’s passion for food shines through in every dish. This place is a local dive with a strong sense of nostalgia. You may be wondering why it is reservation only, it turns out the restaurant owner maintains a second job, and so is not always available. It really shows if you love something, people will appreciate it! If the food seems great, then you should visit.

Google Search Assessment

A quick Google search for “HoHang Morae 신방화” (HoHang Morae Sinbanghwa) yields limited results. The restaurant lacks a strong online presence, which contributes to its “hidden gem” status. Reviews are scarce, but the existing ones generally praise the freshness of the seafood and the authentic Korean flavors. The lack of extensive online information reinforces the need for reservations, as the restaurant relies on word-of-mouth and repeat customers.

Google Maps Information

Based on Google Maps, HoHang Morae is located near Sinbanghwa Station. Check the Google Maps location here for precise directions and user photos (if available). Note that the opening hours may be irregular due to the reservation-only policy, so confirm with the restaurant directly.