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Heuksan Dongeo: A Master’s Guide to Fermented Skate (Hong-eo) in Seoul – From Beginner to Expert

Venturing into the world of Hong-eo (fermented skate) can be daunting, especially for first-timers. But at Heuksan Dongeo (흑산도 넙데기) in Sadang, Seoul, run by a Hong-eo master, this unique delicacy becomes accessible. Join us as we explore this culinary experience, perfect for both beginners and seasoned enthusiasts!

First Impressions and Hong-tak Pairing

Located near Sadang Station, Heuksan Dongeo’s main branch welcomed us with a clean, traditional setting. We started with the classic ‘Hong-tak’ – Hong-eo and Makgeolli. Chilled Makgeolli in a kettle was a refreshing beginning.

Exploring the Hong-eo Course

Heuksan Dongeo offers a variety of Hong-eo dishes, including Hong-eo Samhap, Sashimi, Jjim, and Aetang. We opted for the Hong-eo Course with skate liver (Ae), booked 3 days ahead.

Hong-eo Samhap: Beginner-Friendly Introduction

Our first dish was Hong-eo Samhap. Beginners should try Hong-eo with salt first. Samhap (Hong-eo, pork, kimchi) with Chojang is approachable and delicious. Even novices enjoyed it, paired with refreshing Bu Chu.

Premium Makgeolli and Hong-eo Muchim

We enjoyed Haechang Makgeolli, a premium rice wine, with Hong-eo Muchim, a spicy skate salad – familiar and enjoyable.

The Hong-eo Deconstruction Show and Rare Cuts

The highlight was the ‘Hong-eo Deconstruction Show’ with an 88kg skate from Yeonpyeong Island. We learned about sourcing and preparation, and saw prized cuts like Ae (liver) from a female skate.

Delicacies: Ae, Gwaneo, Bolsal, Gu-seong-chae

We tasted raw Hong-eo Ae (liver), rich and creamy. Hong-eo Gwaneo (actual liver) with unique flavor, Hong-eo Bolsal (cheek meat) like fresh sashimi, and rare Gu-seong-chae (gill) with sea squirt notes were exceptional.

Unique Textures: Al-jumeoni, Ko, Baetsal

Hong-eo Al-jumeoni (egg sac) in soju shots, Hong-eo Ko (nose) – jelly-like with mild fermentation, and Hong-eo Baetsal (belly) with sesame oil offered diverse textures and tastes.

From Aegujeu to Aetang: Stronger Flavors Emerge

Hong-eo Aegujeu (bile liquor) was a potent palate cleanser. Cooked dishes began with Hong-eo Gui (grilled), then Hong-eo Jjim (steamed) – intensely aromatic, and finally, challenging Hong-eo Aetang (liver soup).

Sweet Ending: Hong-eo Mandu

Hong-eo Mandu (dumplings) with chewy wrappers provided a pleasant, palate-cleansing finish.

Final Verdict: A Hong-eo Haven

Heuksan Dongeo offers a comprehensive Hong-eo experience, from beginner to expert. The expert explanations, clean ambiance, and varied menu make it a must-visit in Seoul for Hong-eo appreciation. Highly recommended!

Location: Near Sadang Station, Seoul (Main Branch Exit 11, Second Branch Exit 6)

General Rating: Highly Recommended

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