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Yangmiok Namdaemun: Authentic Korean BBQ Beef Tripe & Daechang in Seoul

Hello food lovers! I recently visited Yangmiok Namdaemun branch, a renowned Korean BBQ restaurant specializing in Yang Daechang (양대창), which is grilled beef tripe and large intestine. For those eager to jump straight to the food, feel free to skip to 3 minutes 20 seconds in the video! (Though there’s no video in this blog post, imagine delicious grilling sounds here!).

Location and Accessibility

Yangmiok Namdaemun is conveniently located in Jung-gu, Seoul. It’s accessible from both Hoehyeon Station (회현역) and City Hall Station (시청역), making it quite easy to reach by public transportation. The area is nestled between subway lines 4, 2, and 1, offering multiple options for getting there. While not directly adjacent to the stations, it’s a comfortable walking distance.

Interestingly, the original Yangmiok, which was located near Euljiro 3-ga (을지로3가), unfortunately closed due to a fire earlier this year. The branch I visited, Yangmiok Namdaemun branch, is currently the only operating location. I was told that they are looking for a new spot to reopen the main branch, but until then, the Namdaemun branch will be your go-to for Yangmiok.

A Legacy of Delicious Yang Daechang

Yangmiok is a specialty restaurant focused on Yang Daechang, and they have been in business for about 30 years at their original location. It’s personally one of my top choices when I crave Yang Daechang. You might be familiar with other popular places like Obaltan (오발탄) or Yeontabal (연타발), which are similar. While all are great, I personally slightly prefer Yangmiok when it comes to just the Yang Daechang itself. However, Obaltan has its own merits with more diverse and appealing side dishes like spicy beef tripe salad (양무침) and acorn jelly soup (묵사발), and a more relaxed atmosphere. Each has its pros and cons.

Price and Value

Be prepared, as Yangmiok, like other Yang Daechang specialty restaurants, is on the pricier side. Expect to spend around ₩100,000 per person to have a satisfying meal. While it’s still expensive, it feels like the price point has become relatively more reasonable compared to the past. I remember eating Yang Daechang back in my university days, and even then, it was around ₩20,000 per serving, which was quite expensive considering a bowl of Donkatsu (돈까스) at school cafeteria was only about ₩3,500. Now, it’s around ₩30,000 per serving. While the price is still significant, it hasn’t increased dramatically compared to overall inflation.

Back then, I used to eat so much that it easily cost over ₩100,000 per person. Now, I eat less, but with price increases, it still ends up being around the same. I used to devour 4-5 servings of Daechang alone, but these days, 2 servings are challenging, and I tend to eat more Yang or other items. Despite the cost, the rich, oily goodness keeps me coming back occasionally.

Recently, more affordable Yang Daechang options have emerged, like Seorae Village Yang Daechang (세광 양대창) and Chowon (초원) in Namyeong-dong (남영동), which I personally enjoyed for its value. I hope more of these reasonably priced options continue to appear, giving us more choices.

Parking and Ambiance

Parking is available at Yangmiok, but it can be a little tricky. The parking lot is located behind the restaurant, and I initially got a bit lost finding it. It’s best to turn into the alley just before you reach Yangmiok and go around to the back.

This was my first visit to the Namdaemun branch, and it felt very similar to the original location. The interior seemed even a bit nicer. There’s a main hall area and private rooms inside. It seems lunch sets are served in the hall, but since I was there for BBQ, I was guided to a private room.

The Star of the Show: Yang and Daechang

The menu is, of course, centered around Yang Daechang. They also offer Yanggomtang (beef tripe soup), Naengmyeon (cold noodles), and Seolleongtang (ox bone soup) for meals. We ordered two servings of Special Yang (특양) and two servings of Daechang, which are the signature items here. While other options like Gopchang (곱창 – small intestine), Galbi (갈비 – ribs), or Jeongol (전골 – hot pot) might be good, I always end up ordering the Special Yang and Daechang with Soju (소주), followed by Naengmyeon to finish, before heading to the next round. I imagine their other dishes are probably decent too, as restaurants specializing in this type of cuisine usually maintain a certain standard across their menu. However, when I think of Yangmiok, it’s always the Yang Daechang that comes to mind, not Gopchang.

Banchan (Side Dishes) and Charcoal Grilling

The side dishes are all designed to complement the BBQ. They are good, but I feel like something is slightly missing at times. The Dongchimi (동치미 – radish water kimchi) is excellent! It really helps cut through the richness of the Daechang.

They use charcoal for grilling, which is essential for perfectly grilling Yang and Daechang. We ordered two servings each of Yang and Daechang, and this plate alone was around ₩150,000! The staff expertly grills everything for you from start to finish, which is very convenient. They start by pre-grilling the Daechang and Yang together. This initial grilling takes some time.

Understanding Yang and Daechang

Let’s clarify what Yang is. It’s not the sheep you see on farms; it’s the first stomach of a cow. Cows have four stomachs, and Yang is the first one. The second stomach is Beoljip-yang (벌집양), which you might see in Haejangguk (해장국 – hangover soup). The third, Cheonyeop (천엽 – tripe), is sometimes served as a complimentary side with liver at Gopchang restaurants. Dipped in sesame oil, they are also tasty. Thinking about this makes me crave Makchang (막창 – beef abomasum) as well! Well-grilled Makchang is also deliciously savory. However, Yangmiok doesn’t serve Makchang. For Makchang, you should visit a Makchang specialty place. Yangmiok focuses on Gopchang and Daechang.

Grilling Process and Taste

Yangmiok pre-grills Yang and Daechang together. When pre-grilling, the fat from the Daechang slightly coats the Yang, enhancing its flavor. This is why even people who prefer Yang over Daechang like to have Daechang grilled alongside Yang. Whenever I’ve gone with someone who prefers Yang, we always end up ordering Daechang anyway! After the initial grilling, they re-coat the Yang Daechang with their special sauce, ensuring deeper flavor penetration. Then, they grill the Yang first, placing the Daechang intermittently between the Yang pieces. These Daechang pieces act as an additional “coating” for the Yang during grilling. This is why you usually eat the Yang first.

I think this is the right order, as Yang cooks faster. Eating Daechang then Yang might make the Yang taste less flavorful because Daechang is much richer in fat and flavor. It’s always best to start with milder flavors. However, there’s no strict rule – eat them in any order you like!

Enjoying Perfectly Grilled Yang and Daechang

Now, they are perfectly grilled! Yang is less fatty than Daechang but has a wonderful chewy texture. If overcooked, it can become tough, so it’s best to grill it just right. Initially, you can pick pieces directly from the grill, but it can get tougher over time, so I usually move them off the direct heat after a while. Yangmiok recommends dipping the Yang in their sauce and wrapping it in lettuce. It’s delicious that way, but simply enjoying the Yang on its own is also great, or even with rice. The sauce has a slightly seasoned taste, complementing it well with rice.

Yangmiok uses New Zealand Yang, not domestic Korean Hanwoo (한우). This isn’t for cost-saving; New Zealand Yang is considered higher quality than Korean Hanwoo Yang because New Zealand cattle graze on grass more. While preferences vary, for Yang specifically, New Zealand is often preferred. This isn’t unique to Yangmiok; places like Obaltan and Yeontabal also use New Zealand Yang. Interestingly, New Zealand Yang is actually more expensive than Hanwoo Yang.

Daechang: Rich and Flavorful

Next up is Daechang, with a bit of Yang mixed in. While I love Yang, I’m also a big fan of Daechang. Whenever I go to a Yang Daechang restaurant, I always order both. Daechang is grilled after Yang. Being high in fat, it produces more smoke and flames on the charcoal grill. I actually enjoy watching the smoke! As the fat drips onto the charcoal, it creates smoke that infuses the Daechang with a smoky aroma. This smoky flavor combined with the savory taste of rendered beef fat is a delightful experience. If I were to rank dishes based on a single delicious bite, this would be very high on the list. However, being mostly fat, it’s hard to eat many pieces. It can become overwhelming. Yangmiok’s sauce is moderately seasoned, which helps balance the richness of the Daechang, making it easier to enjoy. Daechang tastes great on its own, but the right sauce enhances it perfectly. A sauce that’s too strong can overpower the flavor, so finding the right balance is crucial. Obaltan and Yangmiok’s sauces strike that perfect balance that I love.

Often, restaurants specializing in Gopchang might grill Daechang plain without sauce, with a separate dipping sauce. That’s also delicious and savory. But personally, I prefer Daechang grilled with a marinade and charcoal, as done here. Like Yang, Daechang can also become tough if overcooked. It’s best to eat it when it’s just perfectly grilled. Also, the longer it cooks, the more fat renders out, reducing its size, so eating it quicker means you get to enjoy more! Perfectly grilled Daechang is tender and easy to chew.

Nostalgia and Moderation

If I were to pick my favorite food from my university days, it would be Daechang and Persian Palace curry in Hyehwa-dong (혜화동). Both Daechang and curry are unfortunately calorie-bombs, so I always hesitate before indulging. Even when I’m on a diet, eating these throws my weight off track. Yet, not eating them is also difficult! It’s a food that brings both joy and conflict. For this reason, I don’t eat as much as I used to. I try to eat in moderation these days. However, when you are drinking alcohol with it, the second round of drinks is inevitable, so I wonder if this moderation really makes a difference! Still, I try to practice some self-control. If self-control fails, looking at the menu prices usually helps to moderate my portions – it’s quite effective!

Missing Out on Meal Dishes

We also had Naengmyeon (cold noodles) and Yanggomtang (beef tripe soup) as meals, but unfortunately, I didn’t get to film them. I was too busy eating! I hope to share about them next time if I get another chance. (The video shows slices of skate fish (회 – hoe) that came with the Bibim Naengmyeon (spicy cold noodles) when changing it to Hoe Naengmyeon (cold noodles with skate fish)).

Final Thoughts

Yangmiok is a great place to visit when you crave Yang and Daechang. It is on the pricier side, but when I think of Yang Daechang, this restaurant is the first that comes to my mind. It’s been a favorite for a long time, and I hope the original branch reopens quickly.

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General Rating:

4.5 out of 5 stars (Based on the positive review and reputation)

Location:

Yangmiok Namdaemun Branch
Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea
(Accessible from Hoehyeon Station and City Hall Station)

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