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Michelin Star Korean Fine Dining in Seoul: A Review of La Yeon at The Shilla Hotel

Located in the prestigious Shilla Hotel in Seoul, La Yeon is a celebrated Korean restaurant holding three Michelin stars since 2017. Often compared to other Michelin-starred establishments like Gaon and Mingles, La Yeon offers a distinctly traditional Korean dining experience. While some might perceive Michelin stars as the ultimate judgment, it’s always wise to consider them as a helpful guide rather than an absolute decree of culinary perfection. Personal preferences and experiences vary, and sometimes the most delightful meals are found in unexpected places. However, Michelin recognition often signifies a certain level of quality and service worth exploring.

First Impressions and Ambiance

The entrance to La Yeon has recently been rerouted due to ongoing Hanok (traditional Korean house) construction, leading to a slightly different access point. Situated on the 23rd floor of The Shilla Hotel, La Yeon shares its stunning panoramic city views with Conti Continental and the Executive Lounge. The restaurant boasts a sophisticated and spacious interior, ensuring comfortable distances between tables, a feature that reflects its premium pricing. During my visit, I was fortunate to be the first guest, allowing for unobstructed photos of the elegant setting.

The Menu and Dining Experience

La Yeon offers three lunch course options: Ye Course, La Yeon Course, and Bigeum Course. The Bigeum course is a vegan option, which I skipped. The Ye Course initially appears to be a value option at ₩109,000, but it’s important to note that the main dish is an additional charge of ₩49,000. This means the seemingly affordable course could quickly escalate to ₩158,000 if you opt for a main dish like Tteokgalbi (grilled short rib patties) or Galbijjim (braised short ribs), which are practically essential for a Korean fine dining experience. I chose the La Yeon Course, which includes a wider selection without hidden main dish surcharges. While a supplementary charge applies for adding dishes like Sinseollo (Korean royal hot pot), I decided against it this time as it wasn’t particularly impressive on a previous visit.

Delectable Dishes from the La Yeon Course

The meal began with amuse-bouches: dried jujubes and seaweed crisps (Gamtae Twigak). These were delightful, especially the jujubes, which were sweet and had a satisfyingly crisp texture. The Gamtae crisps were subtly sweet and savory, though slightly sticky.

Next came a welcoming dish of steamed egg custard topped with salted pollock roe (Myeongran). The egg was described as organic and the Myeongran of a special variety, though specifics were not clearly remembered. Served in a traditional Korean earthenware bowl (Onggi), the egg custard was light and flavorful, though the portion was quite small as an introductory dish.

The Scallop Gangchae followed, a visually stunning dish with finely sliced scallops and zucchini interspersed and garnished with flowers and pine nuts. While aesthetically pleasing, the scallop portion was modest. It was served with Sannamul Jangajji (pickled mountain vegetables) which complemented the seafood well.

The Yukjeon (pan-fried beef) was a standout. Exceptionally well-prepared, the beef was high-quality, thinly sliced, and lightly battered for a clean, crisp finish, topped with delicate scallions. While undeniably excellent (perhaps a 95/100), the reviewer pondered if the significant price difference compared to readily available, albeit slightly less refined (85/100), Yukjeon elsewhere was justified. The reviewer noted that while achieving Michelin-level French cuisine at home is nearly impossible, high-quality traditional Korean dishes like Yukjeon might feel somewhat replicable, potentially impacting perceived value for some. However, for international visitors seeking an authentic and impeccably executed Korean culinary experience, La Yeon’s Yukjeon and other traditional dishes present an unparalleled opportunity.

The Grilled Golden Tilefish (Geumtae) was another highlight. Perfectly cooked and rich in flavor, it was served with a sauce made from Geumtae broth, Hallabong orange, and Gochujang (Korean chili paste). The sauce offered a pleasant citrusy note and a subtle spicy depth, more akin to a sophisticated soup than a heavy Gochujang stew, allowing the natural flavor of the Geumtae to shine. It was accompanied by perfectly steamed cabbage, enhancing the dish. While enjoyable, the reviewer felt a stronger spicy kick might have elevated it further, hinting at a personal preference for more intense Gochujang flavor.

The main course was Galbijjim (braised short ribs). The reviewer declared it the best Galbijjim they had ever tasted. The meat and fat ratio was ideal, the sauce perfectly balanced – flavorful yet not overly salty – and the vegetables were a welcome addition. An alternative main course option was grilled Korean beef sirloin (Deungsim Gui), also praised for its quality, though deemed less unique compared to the exceptional Galbijjim. The Galbijjim is highly recommended.

For rice, guests can choose from various Ssambap (wrapped rice and fillings) options including Domi Sotbab (sea bream rice pot), abalone, or seasonal vegetables. The seasonal option during this visit was Domi Sotbab. Previously, the reviewer had enjoyed the abalone version. The Domi Sotbab with sea bream was excellent, featuring perfectly cooked, flavorful fish with shiitake, enoki, and bamboo shoots. The dish comes with three side dishes and soy sauce for seasoning, though the rice itself is already subtly seasoned. The combination of flavors and textures, especially the bamboo shoots and mushrooms, was exceptional. The reviewer appreciated the option to enjoy it plain or mixed with soy sauce, preferring a slightly lighter taste. Leftover scorched rice (Nurungji) could be enjoyed with hot water for a comforting finish.

Dessert featured seasonal fruit soup and Hallabong and Yuja (citron) ice confection. The refreshing and subtly sweet dessert, with a jelly-like Hallabong base, was a pleasant palate cleanser. Despite not being a fan of overly sour desserts, the reviewer found this one balanced and delicious.

Finally, Dagwa (Korean traditional sweets) of Ssuktteok (mugwort rice cake) and Omija tea were served. The Ssuktteok, delicately decorated with a tiny flower, proved a bit challenging to eat gracefully due to its soft texture and slight stickiness to the plate. However, the flavor and presentation were refined.

Final Thoughts

La Yeon at The Shilla Hotel offers a remarkable Michelin three-star Korean dining experience. Shilla Hotel cardholders receive a discount, making it slightly more accessible. To maximize enjoyment, the reviewer suggests avoiding Korean food the day before visiting, to fully appreciate the elevated “home-style” (Jipbap) cuisine that La Yeon provides. While acknowledging the high price point, the reviewer highlights the exceptional quality, particularly the Geumtae, Sotbab, and especially the Galbijjim. The service and ambiance, typical of The Shilla, are impeccable, with notably spacious table arrangements. Despite some minor value considerations, the reviewer concludes that La Yeon is a highly recommendable destination for experiencing top-tier Korean fine dining in Seoul.

Location: The Shilla Hotel, 23rd Floor, 249 Dongho-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea

General Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars

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