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Jeonju Hanok Village: A Local’s Honest Review & Travel Guide

Hello everyone! Today, I’m excited to bring you a comprehensive review of Jeonju Hanok Village, one of Korea’s most iconic tourist destinations. I have a special connection to this place because I was born and raised in Jeonju. However, like many who leave their hometown for the big city, I didn’t fully appreciate Hanok Village until much later in life. I moved to Seoul in 2005 at the age of 19 and spent over a decade there. Ironically, it wasn’t until about 4 or 5 years ago, in my early thirties, that I finally visited the famous Jeonju Hanok Village for the first time – much later than many non-locals!

A Transformation Story: From Old Village to Tourist Hotspot

Here’s the interesting part: the Hanok Village I experienced for the first time just a few years ago is the Hanok Village that most people know and love today. The Hanok Village of my childhood, the one I remember until I left Jeonju at 19, was drastically different. To put it bluntly, and perhaps a bit harshly as some Jeonju citizens might say, it was considered a run-down, unremarkable neighborhood. It was called a “poor neighborhood.” While technically a Hanok Village, traditional Korean houses weren’t as numerous as they are now. Many were in disrepair, with leaky roofs and on the verge of collapse. Some houses even had slate roofs, giving it a shanty town feel. There were also many ordinary modern houses mixed in, making it look like a typical residential area. That’s how I remembered Hanok Village until I left Jeonju in 2005.

Then, something changed. People around me started talking about traveling to Jeonju. As someone from Jeonju, I was often asked for recommendations. Frankly, I was puzzled. What was so special about Jeonju to warrant a trip? And when I learned it was because of Hanok Village, I was even more confused. My perception of Hanok Village was stuck in the past. So, about 4 or 5 years ago, I decided to revisit. What I found was a transformation beyond recognition. Starting in the late 2000s, Jeonju City began a tourism development project. Around 2012, photos of people wearing Hanbok in Hanok Village started popping up on social media, and it quickly became a national hot spot. Eventually, it became one of Korea’s top tourist destinations, attracting over ten million visitors annually for three consecutive years.

While I don’t have any particular attachment to Jeonju just because it’s my hometown, it’s where I started my YouTube journey. So, I felt I needed to do a deep dive into Hanok Village. With so many tourists flocking here, there are also concerns about commercialization and high prices. So, in this post, as part of my Jeonju series before moving back to Seoul after four years here, I’m reviewing Jeonju Hanok Village, the place that propelled Jeonju into a top travel destination.

Experiencing Hanok Village: Hanbok Rental Adventure

One of the first things you should do in Hanok Village is rent a Hanbok. While some might wear it for the experience, let’s be honest, it’s mostly for taking photos! Personally, I never understood the appeal of spending money to wear Hanbok, and I’d never tried it. But for this review, I decided to dive in. Renting a Hanbok turned out to be more challenging than expected. It took me over an hour just to rent one! My Hanok Village review started with an unexpected hurdle.

My first stop was a rental shop with a huge crowd. It was too packed, so I left. The second place was less crowded, but being a Hanbok rental newbie, I was clueless. Despite waiting for over 10 minutes, no staff was available to assist. Strike two. The third shop was surprisingly quick. I was given a Hanbok almost immediately. However, when I put it on, I felt… awkward. Maybe it was just me. I tried to ask for an exchange, but the staff seemed uninterested and unhelpful. I decided to move on. The fourth place had women’s Hanbok indoors and men’s Hanbok outside. But again, after waiting for over 10 minutes, I couldn’t find any staff to assist me. Finally, at the fifth shop, “Dabeerang Hanbok,” I received proper guidance and was able to rent a Hanbok. The price was ₩15,000 per hour for school uniforms and ₩20,000 for Hanbok, with extra charges for accessories. After visiting five rental shops, I realized that while many advertise discounts, the prices are generally similar everywhere. My advice? Choose a place that isn’t too crowded and seems helpful. For men, some Hanboks require inner layers, while others, like king’s robes, can be worn as outerwear. I opted for a king’s robe for two hours and even got an extra hour for free! With Hanbok finally sorted, it was time to explore and eat.

Hanok Village Street Food Tour: Honest Taste Test & Recommendations

Hanok Village is packed with street food. I arrived hungry to try as much as possible. First up was “Otjang,” which always seems to have the longest queue. It’s essentially squid fries. I ordered the sweet onion flavor for ₩12,000 per squid. ₩12,000 for street food is pricier than highway rest stops! And “Otjang” wasn’t alone. In Hanok Village, none of the street food I tried felt reasonably priced. But considering it’s a top tourist destination, high prices are somewhat expected. So, I decided to focus on what tasted best despite the cost. “Otjang” was the most satisfying street food I had in Hanok Village. It was seasoned squid fries with plump squid. At ₩12,000, it was the most expensive street food I bought, but it felt the most worth it. If you have to choose, I recommend “Otjang.” I finally understood why it always has a long line.

Next, I tried Dak-nalgae Bokkeumbap (Chicken Wing Fried Rice, ₩5,000) and a slushie (character cup for ₩5,000). The slushie was standard. The chicken wing fried rice was a bit disappointing. The portion was small for the price, and it had a slight chicken odor. Then came Muneo Kkochi (Octopus Skewer, ₩5,000) in mild flavor. It tasted strangely of butane gas. My cameraman agreed. It was bizarre. Next, I queued for Cheese Dak-kkochi (Cheese Chicken Skewer, ₩5,000). While waiting, I bought Tanghulu and Apple Watermelon Juice. Tanghulu was surprisingly good. Sweet and crunchy sugar coating with cool, frozen strawberries inside. Kids would love it. Apple Watermelon Juice (₩10,000 for two cups in a watermelon container) was refreshing and mildly sweet. It was my second favorite after “Otjang.” The Cheese Dak-kkochi was okay. No gas smell thankfully, but it was just a very standard chicken skewer, slightly dry and nothing special.

Looking for something unique, I spotted “Beol Tteok Ju.” They were selling penis-shaped bread/figures. A bit risqué for a place with many children? Some had faces on them. These are actually cups for a drink. Probably just for fun, not for any real “energy-boosting” effects, despite the name. Next was Uahano Tteok (Honey Rice Cake). It was essentially Garae-tteok (long rice cake) with honey, exactly as expected. Good if you like that simple taste. Then, 10 Won Bread (₩4,000). Shaped like a 10-won coin. It was pizza bread with Imshil cheese inside, better than expected but not a must-try.

Activities in Hanok Village: Fortune Telling & Caricature

Three hours of Hanbok rental flew by. I was exhausted. I changed back and grabbed an ice beer (₩5,000). It was a standard beer slush. Hanok Village also has many fortune-telling places. I don’t usually believe in it, and the prices seemed steep, but for the review, I tried a ₩50,000 comprehensive fortune reading. The fortune teller claimed to have predicted the Sampoong Department Store collapse survivors. He said I’m always thinking about money and women (true, but a bit blunt!). He said I’m smart and that my 32-34 age range was good. Ironically, at 32, my business failed, I lost everything, and got dumped. At 33, I was jobless and living with my parents. YouTube started working out at 34. He also predicted a beautiful woman would enter my life. Suddenly, I wanted to believe in fortune telling. He said my current YouTube career would last until I’m 70. Wow, lifetime job security! Overall, the fortune telling session lasted just over 10 minutes for ₩50,000. Pricey and hard to recommend, but if his woman prediction comes true, this place will become legendary!

Next, I tried caricature. Many places advertised ₩5,000, but that’s for black and white. Color is ₩15,000, which is the real deal. I got a color caricature for ₩15,000. It made me look better than reality! Whether it’s worth it is subjective. It’s ₩15,000 for a color caricature – you decide.

Must-Visit Cafes: Cafe Jeonmang & Masirangae

As evening approached, I realized I hadn’t even covered half of what I planned to review! One day wasn’t enough. I decided to return the next day. If you visit Hanok Village, you’ll likely want to visit a cafe. Two popular options are Cafe Jeonmang and Masirangae. Cafe Jeonmang is the highest cafe in Hanok Village, offering panoramic views of the Hanok rooftops. Daytime views are better than nighttime. Masirangae, near Jeondong Cathedral, is very Instagrammable with a popular photo zone. I skipped the photo line. “Masirangae” sounds fancy, but it’s Jeolla dialect for “Come and drink coffee here! Don’t go anywhere else!”

Restaurant Review: Veteran Kalguksu

For day two, I started with Veteran Kalguksu, a famous restaurant with almost 50 years of history in Hanok Village. I’ve been here before, but revisited for this review. As expected, there was a long wait. It’s located in front of Jeonju Seongshim Girls’ Middle School. Seeing my old middle school uniform reminded me of my innocent school days… Just kidding, back to the Kalguksu.

Veteran Kalguksu has three items: Kalguksu, Jjolmyeon, and Mandu. I ordered all three. Jjolmyeon was very standard, nothing special. Mandu (dumplings) were decent, slightly below the quality of common chain dumplings. The main dish, Kalguksu (₩9,000), is a noodle soup with a thick broth with chili powder, seaweed, sesame seeds, and egg. Despite “Kalguksu” meaning “knife-cut noodles,” these seemed machine-made. The taste was very mild and ordinary, like a bland egg soup. Veteran Kalguksu is popular and has history, so it’s worth trying for the experience, but don’t expect extraordinary taste. It’s more about the nostalgic value for tourists.

More to Eat & Do: Bibimbap Croquette, Moju Ice Cream, Cheese Gui, Yanggung, Electric Bike, Makgeolli & Yukjeon

Near Veteran Kalguksu, I tried Jeonju Bibimbap Croquette. A subscriber kindly gifted me two! Thanks! It was surprisingly good. Despite bread and rice, it tasted more like a regular croquette filling. At ₩3,000 each, it’s relatively affordable and worth trying in the bibimbap city. I revisited the “Beol Tteok Ju” place for coconut ice cream, not for any “energy boost” drink! Small coconut (₩5,000), large (₩6,000). I got the large. I’m not a huge coconut fan, and it was just okay. I still prefer the Apple Watermelon Juice. For dessert, I bought a PNB (Pungnyeon Bakery) Choco Pie (₩1,700), Jeonju’s famous treat. Cream and strawberry jam in chocolate bread. It’s okay, but I still prefer Orion Choco Pie. Just personal preference.

Time for activities! I tried Yanggung (archery, ₩10,000 for 10 arrows). Despite good eyesight, archery is nothing like shooting. It wasn’t super exciting, but better than fortune telling and caricature in terms of value and fun. I rented an electric bike (₩20,000 for 2 hours, always get extra time and a large helmet!). Electric bikes are highly recommended for exploring Hanok Village. It covers more ground and is fun. While biking, I saw Moju Ice Cream (₩3,500). Moju is a mild rice wine with spices. The ice cream tasted just like Moju. Good alternative if you want to try Moju flavor without the alcohol. Also tried Imsil Cheese Gui (grilled cheese, ₩4,000). It’s okay, but a small portion for the price, especially if you’re not a huge cheese lover. Finally, for dinner, I had Yukjeon (beef pancake) and Makgeolli (rice wine). At a famous Yukjeon place. There was a dog casually wandering around – a local Hanok Village celebrity, harmless and friendly. Yukjeon (₩8,000) and Makgeolli set (₩14,000 with TaePyeong Makgeolli). Yukjeon was decent, standard taste. But the Makgeolli set was overpriced. The Makgeolli itself was unremarkable, tasted like cheap supermarket Makgeolli, yet the set price implied it cost ₩6,000 just for the Makgeolli. Yukjeon was okay, but Makgeolli set wasn’t worth it.

Conclusion

That concludes my comprehensive review of Jeonju Hanok Village! I couldn’t cover everything, like accommodations, but I hope this helps you plan your visit. Remember the fortune teller’s prediction: “Your current job will last until you’re 70!” With that in mind, and dressed in my king Hanbok, I bow deeply to you, my subscribers! Thank you for watching/reading, and please subscribe for more content!