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Is Pufferfish Worth Dying For? An Honest Taste Test at Akasaka, Gangnam

For years, I’ve been captivated by one particular food, a dish that ancient Chinese scholar Su Shi (蘇軾, also known as Su Dongpo) famously described with paradoxical allure: “To eat pufferfish is foolish, because it may kill you. But not to eat it is even more foolish, because the taste is so exquisite.” This intriguing, seemingly contradictory statement ignited my curiosity about pufferfish (복어, Bogeo).

Pufferfish, or fugu in Japanese, is known as one of the most poisonous creatures in the natural world. It contains tetrodotoxin, a neurotoxin far more potent than cyanide – a lethal dose is just 0.5mg, enough to kill an adult. A single pufferfish can contain enough toxin to kill 33 adults, and there’s no known antidote. Eating it seems like flirting with danger, a culinary tightrope walk.

Historically, pufferfish has been consumed in Korea, Japan, and China for centuries. Ancient records show that despite the known dangers, people were willing to risk death for its unique taste. In China, as far back as 2300 years ago, records warned of death from pufferfish consumption, yet praise for its flavor persisted. In Japan, during the Imjin War, many soldiers reportedly died from pufferfish poisoning. This led to a 300-year ban on pufferfish consumption. The Japanese proverb, “Those who do not eat pufferfish are unworthy to see Mount Fuji,” highlights the extreme value placed on its taste. Similarly, Korean historical records from the Joseon Dynasty mention deaths due to pufferfish poisoning, but it was still lauded as a delicacy fit for royalty.

So, what is it about pufferfish that makes people risk their lives? I had to find out. To ensure safety, licensed chefs with specialized pufferfish preparation certifications (복어조리기능사) are required to handle and sell pufferfish in Korea. Even with these precautions, I wanted to find a restaurant that I could trust implicitly for my first experience. After extensive research, I chose Akasaka (아카사카), a high-end Japanese restaurant near Gangnam Station in Seocho-gu, Seoul. The restaurant is run by Chef Kwang Mun-hyung, a chef with 26 years of experience, trained in Tokyo, and a certified pufferfish料理 chef who even participates in the certification exams.

Dining at Akasaka: A Pufferfish Culinary Journey

Akasaka is a luxurious, private dining establishment with all rooms being private. Price was not my primary concern; safety and authenticity were. I opted for the “Live Pufferfish Course” (활 복어 코스 요리). When I visited (about two weeks prior to writing this), it was priced at ₩150,000 per person, but due to rising ingredient costs, it’s now ₩180,000. This is definitely not a budget meal!

The course unfolded as follows:

1. First Course: Gaemi-sikhye (fermented skate) and abalone intestine porridge.
2. Second Course: Pufferfish skin sashimi, greater amberjack (buri) belly sashimi. The freshness was undeniable, but otherwise standard sashimi fare.
3. Third Course: A seafood platter featuring lobster, abalone, shrimp, sea squirt, and sea cucumber. Again, very fresh, with the standout being the raw lobster, which had a texture and taste similar to raw shrimp.
4. Fourth Course: The main event – Pufferfish Sashimi (복사시미). Two specialized knives were presented, one exclusively for pufferfish. The sashimi is sliced paper-thin, almost transparent. This is because pufferfish has an incredibly chewy texture. Thicker slices would likely be unpleasantly tough. The paper-thin slices were served with dropwort (minari), which complemented the texture beautifully.
5. Fifth Course: Pufferfish Shabu-Shabu. Even cooked, the pufferfish maintained a unique, incredibly chewy texture, reminiscent of squid but still distinctly fish.
6. Sixth Course: Pufferfish Bulgogi and Pufferfish Jjigae (stew).
7. Seventh Course: Pufferfish Tempura and assorted tempura and maki rolls. Again, the signature pufferfish texture was the main characteristic.
8. Dessert: Fruit and Hwachae (Korean fruit punch).

The Verdict: Is it Worth the Risk and Hype?

So, after all the courses, the question remains: Is pufferfish truly the life-altering, death-defying delicacy that Su Shi described? Frankly, no. While the texture of pufferfish is indeed unique – intensely chewy and unlike any other fish I’ve ever tasted – the taste itself is subtle and not overwhelmingly flavorful. My personal opinion is that the hype is largely driven by the danger and novelty associated with it. Su Shi’s dramatic pronouncements about trading one’s life for the taste seem like hyperbole, perhaps a bit of attention-seeking.

While I appreciate the unique texture and the experience of trying such a historically significant and dangerous food, I wouldn’t say it’s worth risking death for. The “heavenly taste” and “divine flavor” descriptions are, in my view, exaggerations. However, if you’re a culinary adventurer seeking a unique textural experience and are assured of safe preparation by a certified chef, trying pufferfish once is certainly an interesting and memorable culinary experience. Just don’t expect to have your life changed by the flavor alone.

Restaurant Information:

• Restaurant Name: Akasaka (아카사카)
• Location: Seocho-gu, Seoul, near Gangnam Station (서울 서초구 강남역 근처)
• Cuisine: High-End Japanese, Pufferfish Specialty
• Rating: Generally high-end and reputable.