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Shin Sado Kim Su Sa: A Sinsa-dong Sushi Omakase Bridging Tradition and Trend

Do you remember the “susa” style Japanese restaurants from your childhood – places reserved for special occasions, offering luxurious sashimi platters? These establishments, known for their generous portions and premium prices, seem to have gradually faded as the sushi boom brought a wave of more casual, value-for-money options. Yet, amidst these shifting culinary trends, some places strive to maintain their heritage while adapting to modern palates. Today, we delve into one such unique establishment in Seoul: Shin Sado Kim Su Sa.

A Legacy Reimagined: The Story of Kim Su Sa

Shin Sado Kim Su Sa, located in the vibrant Sinsa-dong district of Gangnam, Seoul, boasts a rich history, having first opened its doors in 1986. This is a place where tradition runs deep, having been passed down from father to son. Historically, “susa” restaurants were synonymous with lavish sashimi spreads. However, Kim Su Sa has evolved, blending its traditional roots with contemporary trends by focusing on counter-seat sushi omakase. This approach has garnered popularity among a wide range of sushi enthusiasts, aiming to deliver a high-quality experience that balances both value and craftsmanship.

Price Point & Unique Offering

• Lunch Sushi Omakase: ₩50,000 (increased from ₩40,000)
• Dinner Sushi Omakase: ₩60,000 – ₩70,000

One noteworthy feature that sets Kim Su Sa apart is its BYOB (Bring Your Own Bottle) policy, allowing patrons to enjoy their preferred alcoholic beverages without additional corkage fees – a rare and welcome perk in Seoul’s dining scene.

A Culinary Journey: The Omakase Experience

My recent visit for the sushi omakase lunch started with an elegant Chawanmushi topped with truffle, a sophisticated start. This was followed by delicate crab meat, chilled to perfection, highlighting its natural sweetness. The progression continued with a sea urchin (uni) served atop seaweed, which offered a refreshing and aromatic burst of flavor.

The Stars of the Show: Nigiri Sushi

• Hirame (Flounder): Aged for four days and thickly sliced, it presented a soft, almost “fluffy” texture.
• Domi (Sea Bream): Also aged and thickly cut, it offered a distinctively chewy texture, a pleasant contrast to the flounder.
• Japanese Bangeo (Yellowtail/Amberjack): This was a highlight, with a rich oiliness that melted in the mouth, delivering a savory taste without being overwhelming. Paired with a touch of wasabi, its umami truly shone.
• Akami (Lean Tuna): Lightly marinated in soy sauce and thickly sliced. While the cut was generous, the soy marinade hadn’t fully permeated, leading me to wonder if a slightly thinner slice might have enhanced the flavor integration.
• Chutoro (Medium Fatty Tuna): Served with a sprinkle of salt, this piece was incredibly tender, melting upon contact with the palate, and boasting a delightful “sticky” texture and robust umami.
• Amaebi (Sweet Shrimp): Perfectly fresh, offering a firm, bouncy texture and exquisite sweetness.
• Iwashi (Sardine): A surprisingly excellent piece. Despite its large size, it was remarkably clean-tasting, free of any fishiness, and pleasantly sweet and aromatic.

Other notable dishes included a clean salmon piece, a smoked Spanish mackerel (samchi) with a good aroma but slightly under-thawed texture, and a squid (ika) topped with salt and yuzu zest, where the yuzu proved a tad too dominant. The steamed abalone sushi was a unique offering, though for personal preference, the chewy abalone texture sometimes feels separate from the sushi rice. We also enjoyed a balanced Shime Saba (vinegared mackerel) maki, an Ikura Don (salmon roe bowl) that was generous but a little too salty, and a flavorful Negitoro Maki to finish.

The Shari Debate: Tradition vs. Trend

The most significant change I observed at Shin Sado Kim Su Sa was in the shari (sushi rice). From my previous visits, I remembered a somewhat sticky, slightly sweet, and vinegary rice that leaned towards a Korean-style sushi flavor profile. However, this time, the shari was noticeably drier, with a matte texture, almost no sweetness, and a much stronger emphasis on salt and vinegar. While this style is trendy in many modern sushi establishments, I felt the balance was somewhat off, lacking the harmonious interplay of sweetness, vinegar, and salt. It seemed to mimic a popular style without fully mastering its delicate equilibrium.

Final Thoughts and Rating

Shin Sado Kim Su Sa offers an intriguing blend of historical charm and modern sushi omakase. While many of the neta (toppings) were fresh and expertly prepared – with the Japanese Bangeo and Iwashi being particular standouts – the transformation of the shari left me with mixed feelings. It felt a bit “awkward” compared to the familiar taste I had cherished. For the current lunch omakase price of ₩50,000, which isn’t exactly cheap, one might expect a more refined and balanced shari, especially when competing with numerous other high-quality sushi spots in Seoul. The restaurant’s commitment to its legacy while attempting to stay current is commendable, but further refinement in the shari’s balance could elevate the overall experience to truly match its esteemed reputation and price point. Despite my personal reservations about the new shari style, its popularity suggests it resonates well with many diners, indicating a bold step towards a new direction for this historic establishment.

Location: Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea

General Rating: A unique historical sushi restaurant offering a popular omakase experience. While some neta were excellent, the updated shari style might not appeal to all, particularly those nostalgic for its former balance. A solid choice for those seeking a modern interpretation of traditional “susa” with the added benefit of BYOB.