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Eumseong’s Saenggeuk Haejangguk: A Premium Offal Soup Experience Worth Every Penny

Hello, this is Mat Sang Mu, and I’ve ventured to Eumseong, Chungcheongbuk-do! I’m here to visit a legendary Haejangguk (Hangover Soup) restaurant that my friend, documentary director Choi Seong-hoon (who works with me on “6 PM My Hometown”), constantly raves about. As a matter of fact, “6 PM My Hometown” often features places handpicked by my good friend, Seong-hoon. I’m eager to try it today, though I don’t know the exact location, so I’ll give him a quick call!

Eumseong is an interesting place with areas like Geumwang, Mugeuk, and Saenggeuk. Seong-hoon hyung jokingly told me the names come from “Geumwang” (금왕) having lots of gold, “Mugeuk” (무극) meaning “no gold can be caught,” and “Saenggeuk” (생극) implying that gold is created there. He even quips that if this etymology is wrong, it’s all on him! Let’s dive into this culinary adventure!

The Saenggeuk Haejangguk Experience: A Feast for the Senses

Upon arrival, I was immediately struck by the generous portions. Two eggs are provided – a unique touch! The table was laden with various side dishes: fresh geotjeori (fresh kimchi), crisp ggakdugi (diced radish kimchi), and spicy green chilies. But the real star, of course, was the main event: a bowl brimming with internal organs. The sheer quantity of cheonyeop (omasum), soyang (beef tripe), and other beef stomach parts was truly impressive.

At 17,000 won, it’s certainly on the pricier side for a Haejangguk, but the abundance of ingredients immediately justifies it. A price like that demands a substantial amount of food, and this place delivers!

A Rich Broth and Pristine Offal

The broth itself is thick and robust, with a deep flavor. It feels like it might have some MSG, but in a way that enhances the experience rather than detracts from it. Adding the provided eggs is an interesting ritual. I usually like them slightly runny, so I dropped them in right away to let them cook gently. The semi-cooked egg yolk, combined with the soup, reminded me a bit of the taste of bean sprout haejangguk with a stirred egg. Two eggs might be a little much for some, making the soup a bit too cloudy, but one is perfect for adding a mild, savory depth.

The star, the offal, was exceptional. There was absolutely no unpleasant gamey smell; it was incredibly soft yet possessed a delightful chewiness and elasticity. The broth itself was also completely free of any off-putting odors. For those who love cheonyeop, this is your paradise. Order the “special” size, and you’ll be able to eat to your heart’s content. This dish is so good, it might protect your stomach lining for a whole month!

Beyond the Usual: A Unique Offal Purity

The cheonyeop has a wonderful crinkly texture, allowing the savory, perfectly seasoned broth to collect in all its nooks and crannies. The seasoning is so spot-on that you barely need any extra soy sauce. Before adding rice, I scooped out some of the offal to make room. The geotjeori was incredibly fresh and delicious, lightly seasoned with sesame oil for a nutty aroma. Of course, a good Haejangguk meal often involves a little sweat!

I devoured most of the meat, clearly ravenous! Then, it was time to customize the heat. They provide a fiery chili sauce (dadaegi) and what seemed like chili oil. The broth was already spicy enough to be like a typical ramen, but I decided to kick it up a notch. While the chilies themselves weren’t overly hot, the chili oil had a powerful, authentic chili aroma. For those who appreciate the bold flavors of Yangpyeong Haejangguk, which typically includes congealed ox blood and dried cabbage, this soup offers a different kind of intensity. This Haejangguk focuses purely on the offal and a deeply stewed bone broth. There are no dried radish greens or congealed blood, just the pure taste of various beef internal organs and a flavorful broth, topped with some green onions. This focused approach results in an incredibly clean and distinct taste.

Mat Sang Mu’s Verdict & Recommendation

Even though it’s 17,000 won, making it one of the most expensive offal dishes I’ve had recently, the sheer freshness and generous quantity of beef offal make it a worthy investment for any offal enthusiast. The experience was truly satisfying!

Director Seong-hoon hyung’s playful etymology for Saenggeuk was that it’s where “gold is created.” But after tasting this Haejangguk, I might be bold enough to say it means you can “experience paradise while alive” – that’s how good Saenggeuk Haejangguk is! It was surprising and delightful that the soup contained nothing but offal and broth. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Given its proximity to Gyeonggi-do, this restaurant makes for a perfect stop for a delicious meal whether you’re traveling north or south through the region. Highly recommended by Mat Sang Mu!

Restaurant Details:

• Location: Eumseong, Chungcheongbuk-do (specifically in the Saenggeuk area)
• General Rating: Exceptional. Reviewer describes it as “paradise” and “worth the investment” for offal lovers, highlighting its freshness, rich flavor, and generous portions.