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Hormon Cheongdam: An Unforgettable Korean Offal Omakase Experience in Seoul

Hello, it’s Jin Di Maria here! This summer’s monsoon season feels exceptionally long, and with the persistent rain, I found myself craving something hearty and flavorful. That craving led me to a truly unique culinary destination in Cheongdam-dong, Seoul: a restaurant called Hormon, specializing in a gopchang (beef offal) omakase. The very idea of an offal omakase sparked my curiosity, and I simply had to try it.

Discovering Hormon: Cheongdam’s Hidden Gem

Hormon is nestled in the upscale Cheongdam-dong area, renowned for its refined dining scene. While my initial reservation was for their main building, which has been open for about five years, I was directed to their newer annex, open for three years, due to ongoing construction at the main branch. The restaurant operates exclusively for dinner, from 6:00 PM until 2:00 AM, and is closed on Wednesdays. This makes it an ideal spot for a late-night culinary adventure.

Hormon offers a single omakase menu priced at ₩35,000 per person. A note for solo diners: typically, there’s a minimum order for two, but the staff graciously accommodated me with a single portion when I explained I was dining alone. Reservations are essential, as they don’t list a public phone number on Naver; you need to call a specific mobile number to book your table. The interior features a comfortable mix of counter seats and tables, along with a separate private room that can host 8-10 people, perfect for intimate gatherings.

The Omakase Journey Begins: A Symphony of Flavors

The gopchang omakase at Hormon is a beautifully curated course, showcasing a remarkable variety of dishes that go far beyond just grilled offal. From delicate appetizers to hearty mains and a surprising dessert, each dish contributes to a truly memorable experience.

Exquisite Appetizers: Sumochi & Shiro Semmai

My journey began with two intriguing appetizers, served thoughtfully in smaller portions for a solo diner. On the right was Sumochi, a dish of boiled beef rectum expertly prepared to resemble bacon. It had a delightful smokiness, a tender chewiness that wasn’t tough, and was perfectly complemented by a refreshing, citrusy yuzu ponzu sauce. It felt like a refined take on bacon, but with a unique offal twist. On the left was Shiro Semmai, which refers to white tripe. Sliced thinly, it offered an incredibly쫄깃 (jjolgit – chewy) yet soft texture. This, too, was served with a tangy ponzu sauce, enhanced by the nutty aroma of sesame seeds. As someone not usually keen on tripe, I found this preparation, with its clean appearance and flavorful sauce, incredibly palatable.

The Perfect Pairing: An Unexpected White Wine

I had brought along a bottle of wine, a choice I’d contemplated carefully between a Champagne or a full-bodied red. Ultimately, I opted for an American Chardonnay, specifically a Santa Barbara County Chardonnay from Sandi. Known for its vanilla, buttery, and toasted notes, this wine, often on the richer side, was an inspired choice. It harmonized beautifully with the smoky notes of the Sumochi and the fresh, savory sesame-ponzu of the Shiro Semmai. The wine’s body and aromatic profile proved to be an exceptional match for the entire course, enhancing every dish that followed.

Grilled Delights: Yeomtong and Daechang Masterclass

The third dish introduced a grilled element: Beef Heart (Yeomtong). Unlike the thinly sliced heart typically found in gopchang restaurants, Hormon served generously thick, diced pieces, grilled to perfection. Each bite offered a satisfying crunch on the outside and a tender, slightly chewy texture within. It was served with salt, pepper, and a soy sauce infused with yuzu kosho. The combination of the clean, wild flavor of the heart with the subtle spice and citrus was sophisticated and incredibly enjoyable, elevating this common ingredient to a gourmet level.

Next was the much-anticipated Beef Large Intestine (Daechang). Often, daechang can be quite greasy, and I typically prefer gopchang or makchang. However, Hormon’s daechang was a revelation. Grilled until crispy on the outside, the inner fatty layer was remarkably clean and intensely savory, rather than greasy. It was seasoned simply with salt and pepper, which allowed its pure, rich flavor to shine. This was, without exaggeration, the most delicious and satisfying daechang I had ever tasted, standing apart from other establishments that often smother it in heavy sauces.

Warming the Soul: Daechang Motsunabe

Mid-course, a warming pot of Daechang Jeon-gol, resembling a Japanese motsunabe, arrived. Prepared in advance, this hotpot featured daechang, cabbage, tofu, and chives in a surprisingly clear and profoundly flavorful broth. It wasn’t a thick, milky bone broth, but a light, yet deeply savory stock that perfectly balanced the richness of the daechang with the refreshing sweetness of the vegetables. It was so delicious that I immediately knew I wanted to continue my meal with rice.

Satisfying Mains: Fried Rice & Beef Tail Stew

The grand finale of the savory dishes included two comforting mains. The Fried Rice, prepared with daechang oil, was anything but greasy. It was savory, with perfectly al dente rice grains and a delightful crunch from the diced vegetables. It rivaled the best fried rice from any high-end Chinese restaurant. Alongside it was a Beef Tail Stew (Sokko-ri Jjim), slow-cooked until the meat was incredibly tender and practically fell off the bone with just chopsticks. Its flavor was milder than traditional Korean oxtail stews, with a hint of sweetness in the rich sauce, making it a perfect accompaniment to rice.

A Unique Grand Finale: The Dessert

The meal concluded with a truly peculiar and memorable dessert. It consisted of thick slices of cream cheese topped with katsuobushi (bonito flakes) and a drizzle of sashimi soy sauce, served with fresh cabbage. The staff mentioned it’s a dish that tends to divide opinions, but I found it utterly fascinating and delicious. The creamy texture of the cream cheese, the umami from the katsuobushi and soy sauce, and the crisp bite of the cabbage created a harmonious blend of savory, sweet, and tangy notes. It was a perfect, distinctive end to an extraordinary meal, and an excellent pairing for the remaining white wine.

Why Hormon is a Must-Visit

My visit to Hormon for their gopchang omakase was an absolute delight. What I initially expected to be a continuous grilling session turned into a diverse culinary journey, featuring cold appetizers, grilled specialties, a comforting hotpot, satisfying mains, and a truly unique dessert. Each of the eight dishes showcased exceptional quality and meticulous preparation, demonstrating a deep understanding of offal and flavor profiles. The value for ₩35,000 for such a high-quality, comprehensive course is outstanding.

The perfect wine pairing with every dish was a particular highlight, something rare even in high-end omakase courses. Hormon’s dedication to late-night operations and its inviting ambiance make it an excellent choice for a relaxed yet sophisticated dining experience with friends. I left not only thoroughly satisfied but also eager to revisit, perhaps on a cool evening, to enjoy its exceptional offerings once more. Hormon is more than just a restaurant; it’s a testament to the art of offal dining, redefining expectations with every dish.