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Beyond Pyongyang Naengmyeon: Authentic North Korean Home Cooking in Daejeon

When you think of North Korean cuisine, chances are the iconic Pyongyang Naengmyeon (cold noodles) comes to mind. However, beyond the well-known dishes, lies a world of everyday “soul food” that North Korean citizens cherish and defectors dearly miss. Today, we’re taking you on a journey to a truly unique establishment in Daejeon, South Korea, that serves these authentic, rarely-seen flavors.

A Restaurant Unlike Any Other: Dedicated to Nostalgia

Located in Wolpyeong-dong, Seo-gu, Daejeon, this “North Korean Restaurant” (its informal name) is not your typical commercial eatery. It operates on an entirely different premise. The owner, a North Korean defector herself who arrived in South Korea in 2008 from near the Aoji Coal Mine, runs this establishment not for profit, but as a heartfelt service. Her sole mission is to recreate the authentic tastes of home for fellow defectors who yearn for the flavors of their childhood. In fact, the owner specifically requested that the restaurant not be advertised to prevent an influx of general customers, wishing to preserve its original purpose for the defector community.

This restaurant operates strictly on a reservation-only basis, with the owner personally arriving to prepare meals for her guests. I had the privilege of visiting at a late hour, as the sole customer, to experience this extraordinary culinary journey driven by pure curiosity.

Exploring the Authentic Menu

While a physical menu exists, many items are currently unavailable. The focus is primarily on signature dishes that are true North Korean staples. I ordered three such dishes, each priced at 10,000 KRW:

• Dubu-bap (Tofu Rice Pockets)
• Konggogi-bap (Soy Meat Rice / Injo-gogi-bap)
• Dubu-jeongol (Tofu Hotpot)

Dubu-bap (Tofu Rice Pockets)

Often sold in North Korean markets (jangmadang), Dubu-bap visually resembles a larger, more rustic version of South Korea’s yubu-chobap (fried tofu pockets with rice). It consists of finely sliced tofu, fried and slit to hold a portion of rice, then eaten with a special seasoned sauce. The owner explained that the rice is lightly salted, and the accompanying sauce is her secret recipe, aged for three years. It’s not a spicy gochujang, but rather a savory, umami-rich seasoning, somewhat akin to the “dadaegi” often found in South Korean gukbap (soup with rice).

For me, the taste was simple and straightforward – much like eating stir-fried tofu with plain rice and a savory condiment. Without the deep nostalgic connection, it felt very basic. However, its filling nature was surprising; just one or two pieces were incredibly satisfying. This dish truly highlights how personal memory and yearning can elevate a simple food to a beloved “soul food.”

Konggogi-bap (Soy Meat Rice / Injo-gogi-bap)

Known as Injo-gogi-bap (“artificial meat rice”) in North Korea, this is another popular market food. Unlike the soft, chewy soy meat typically found in South Korea, North Korean konggogi has a distinctly different texture. It reminded me of a rehydrated, chewy snack (like a jjondeugi). While the texture itself was tolerable, I personally found the scent and flavor profile of this dish to be challenging and not to my palate.

Dubu-jeongol (Tofu Hotpot)

This hearty stew, a common homemade dish in North Korea, wasn’t on the menu but was prepared by the owner based on how she made it back home – without special broths or artificial seasonings. Its composition of pork, aged kimchi, tofu, mushrooms, zucchini, and green onions resulted in a taste remarkably similar to South Korean Kimchi Jjigae (kimchi stew). After the unique experiences of the Dubu-bap and Konggogi-bap, the Dubu-jeongol felt familiar and comforting, underscoring the culinary similarities that sometimes bridge the divide.

A Journey for the Soul, Not Just the Palate

This restaurant in Daejeon represents far more than just a meal. It’s a sanctuary for nostalgia, a taste of home painstakingly recreated by a defector for her community. While the authenticity of the dishes is undeniable, the flavors might not appeal to everyone, especially those without the personal memories and longing for these specific tastes. As such, for those who aren’t North Korean defectors with a deep yearning for these particular flavors, a special trip might not be necessary purely for culinary excitement.

However, for anyone seeking to understand the true “soul food” of North Korea, or for defectors themselves, this establishment offers an invaluable, genuine connection to their heritage. It’s a testament to the enduring power of food to evoke memory, comfort, and belonging.