Geumryong at Grand Walkerhill Seoul: A Journey into Innovative Chinese Fine Dining & Wine Pairing

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Discovering Geumryong: A Culinary Oasis at Grand Walkerhill Seoul

Recently, I had the incredible opportunity to experience a truly unique dining event at the Grand Walkerhill Hotel in Gwangjin-gu, Seoul. While the hotel is famous for its Korean beef restaurant, Myungwolgwan, my visit was to Geumryong, their esteemed Chinese restaurant. This wasn’t just any meal; it was an exclusive gala dinner, a rare culinary spectacle priced at 500,000 KRW per person, meticulously curated with an exceptional wine pairing experience.

A Culinary Journey: The Gala Dinner Experience

Stepping into Geumryong, I was immediately struck by the elegant ambiance, with every table exquisitely set and staff preparing for the grand affair. The evening promised a series of innovative Chinese dishes, each thoughtfully paired with a selection of wines – a sparkling wine, five red wines, and a sweet Riesling.

The Exquisite Appetizers

The meal commenced with a beautifully presented quartet of appetizers. From left to right, we savored succulent salmon, tender steamed abalone, delicate avocado paired with flounder, and a unique radish wrap (mussam). The highlight for me was the lobster ball, gelatinous and infused with a subtle coriander aroma. While coriander might be polarizing, its invigorating, slightly bitter notes perfectly awakened the palate, complemented by crunchy vegetables, reminiscent of an elevated Chinese salad. The flounder, marinated in a special Zhenjiang vinegar, added another layer of authentic Chinese flavor.

Champagne & Shark’s Fin: A Symphony of Flavors

Accompanying our first dishes was the exquisite Franck Bonville Réserve Brut Champagne. Famously served at Bae Yong-joon’s wedding, this champagne offered a delightful combination of nutty aroma and crisp acidity, exuding both elegance and strength – a perfect choice for a grand occasion.

Next, the “Eight Delicacies Sea Urchin Roe Shark’s Fin Steamed (Saekseupin Jjim)” arrived in a stunning bowl. Topped with rich sea urchin roe, the broth, made from eight herbal medicines, offered a unique sweetness, distinct from conventional oyster sauce-based shark’s fin preparations. It was a new and delicious take on a classic. However, the true revelation was its pairing with a wine called “Daru.” This wine created a magical synergy, transforming the flavors in my mouth. After a bite of the shark’s fin, the wine brought forth notes of ripe persimmon, orange, and even Hallabong (Jeju tangerine), significantly enhancing both the dish and the wine itself. It was, without a doubt, the best pairing of the entire evening.

From Ocean Delights to Succulent Beef

The journey continued with stir-fried geoduck clam and whole abalone, tossed in a balanced XO sauce. The geoduck offered a delightful chewiness, while the XO sauce provided a perfect blend of sweetness and mild spice that complemented the seafood without overpowering it. The abalone, cooked with pumpkin and the herbal broth from the shark’s fin, was incredibly tender with a subtle, sweet flavor.

A refreshing lychee sherbet served as a palate cleanser, its soft, fluffy texture and balanced sweetness a welcome break before the next course. Historically, lychee is said to have been a favorite fruit of Yang Guifei, symbolizing beauty. Then came a thinly sliced grilled beef steak. Initially, I had low expectations due to its thinness, but it proved to be surprisingly flavorful. It maintained the essence of Chinese cuisine while incorporating innovative elements, almost like a subtly spiced, slightly sweet Chinese beef dish rather than a conventional steak.

Fiery Lobster and Comforting Noodles

The unique “Lobster with Huoguo (Hot Pot) Sauce” was another showstopper. The lobster, fried with a mala-infused hot pot sauce, was topped with cheese, which beautifully mellowed the intense mala (numbing and spicy) flavor. The coating was wonderfully chewy, similar to glutinous rice tangsuyuk, perfectly complementing the succulent lobster inside.

For the main course, we were served Ngo-yuk Tangmyeon, a beef noodle soup reminiscent of Korea’s Yukgaejang but with distinct Chinese spices. The clear, spicy, and deeply flavorful broth, along with chewy noodles, was incredibly comforting and satisfying.

A Sweet and Healthy Finale

The meal concluded with a delightful dessert: coconut with swallow’s nest. Presented in an elegant bowl, the dessert had a clear, subtly sweet broth, almost like jujube cabbage tea, offering a healthy and refreshing finish to the elaborate dinner.

Why Geumryong Stands Out

Geumryong truly distinguishes itself by offering more than just typical hotel Chinese fare. Each dish showcased creative ideas and a willingness to push culinary boundaries while respecting traditional Chinese flavors. The flavors were meticulously balanced, not overly strong, making them appealing to a wide range of palates. The wine pairings were exceptional, elevating the entire dining experience to an art form.

Plan Your Visit

Geumryong is located within the luxurious Grand Walkerhill Hotel in Gwangjin-gu, Seoul. While this specific gala dinner was a special event, Geumryong consistently offers an upscale Chinese dining experience perfect for special occasions or when seeking an extraordinary meal. I am already looking forward to my next visit to explore their à la carte menu and rediscover their unique take on Chinese cuisine.